A guide to travelling Argentina: 2 and 3 week travel itineraries.

Argentina is a travellers paradise with so much variety of terrains, landscapes and activities to suit everyone. It’s the second biggest country in South America spanning from the tip of Bolivia down to near the Arctic circle. Argentina has everything from out of this world waterfalls and tropical climates, South America’s highest peak, skiing in the winter, glacier carved landscape in Patagonia, metropolitan cities to the finest wine regions in the world.

Argentina is safe,cheap, easy to travel and the people are so helpful and friendly. It is a massive country so be prepared for long night buses or several internal flights to explore the country.

General info and tips

• Capital: Buenos Aires
• Language: Spanish
• Currency: Argentina Peso (AP); €1= 61 ( at time of writing, 3/9/2019).
• Money in Argentina- the AP is a volatile currency going through hyperinflation. The Argentine economic situation is very unstable and in just one day the stock market and value of the peso dropped by 30%. The dollar is seen as a very valuable currency in Argentina due to its stability. ATMs often run out of money and charge about €10 to withdraw and they have a maximum withdrawal of €150. Bring US dollars with you to Argentina to change in either casa de cambios (exchange houses) or in banks. The exchange houses tend to give a better rate than banks and $50 notes are preferred and you will receive a better rate with these. Some places offer a discount when paying in cash but credit and debit cards are widely accepted and it is the law in Argentina to accept card.
• Uber is used in Buenos Aires and is much cheaper than taxis.
• Visas are not required. Tourists receive a 90 day entrance stamp.

When to go

Dec- Feb are the high season here and are best for hiking in Patagonia and the beaches. Expect hot temperatures over 35 degrees in Buenos Aires and northern regions and mild sunny days in the south. High season means high prices and crowds in Patagonia and by the coast. Jun- Aug is peak season for skiing and a good time to visit the north. Expect dry days and cold nights in the north west. The shoulder season is a great time (Nov and Mar) to go hiking down the south. Much fewer crowds but still good weather for hiking. This is a good time to visit Buenos Aires too where it won’t be uncomfortably hot.

How to get there

Buenos Aires is linked by air to most other capitals in South America and well connected with Australia, North America and Europe. There are two airports in Buenos Aire, a domestic and international airport. The sheer size of Argentina means either a domestic flight or two or some 20 hour buses. The international airport is about an hour from Buenos Aires city centre but the domestic airport is very close to the city center and about a 15 minute taxi ride.

Overland, Argentina has plenty of border crossing with Chile, Brazil, Uruguay, Bolivia and Paraguay. They are generally straightforward border crossing. When going into Chile ensure you have no fruits or vegetables. They are insanely strict and thoroughly search you going into Chile. Devastated I had to bin my apples and oranges I had packed for the bus.

Sample itineraries

3 weeks: You won’t see it all in three weeks but its enough time to explore a few different regions and get a feel for this wonderful country.

Buenos Aires (4 days)- Iguazu (2 days)- Salta and the north west (5 days)- Mendoza (3 days)- Patagonia (5 days).

2 weeks: Buenos Aires (4 days)- Iguazu (2 days)- Salta and the north west (4 days)- Mendoza (3 days).

Buenos Aires (4 days)

BA is one of my favourite cities in South America and one city I don’t think I would ever get sick of. It’s an extremely livable city with an electric atmosphere, great nightlife, beautiful European architecture and an incredible food scene. The football fans are passionate and the atmosphere is just utter madness and something you should experience if you get the chance. There is a rougher, less polished side to Buenos Aires, like all major capital cities. A trip to this rougher around the edges side with its graffiti and cracked pavements is worth experiencing.

Things to do

1. Visit San Telmo market and look for antiques at the Sunday fair. This market is full of food vendors and has a bustling antiques fair on a Sunday. The choice of food and drink is excellent here. A perfect place to enjoy a drink and sample local cuisine.
2. See a football match. Bocas Junior and River Plate are the two big rivial teams in Buenos Aires. If you get a chance to see a match, go and witness some of the most passionate supporters in the world.

3. Join a free walking tour. There are a few walking tours in Buenos Aires. A walking tour of Boca, an area that is slightly rougher around the edges, is one of the better ones. The walking tour finishes in Boca Junior stadium.

4. Visit the Teatro Colon. This is the cities main performance venue hosting world-class opera, ballet and classical music. Tours run daily from 9am-5pm and cost AR$ 180.

5. Take a walk through the reserva ecologica costanera sur. This is a beautiful park thats free to enter and perfect for going for a run or walk. You can hire bikes to cycle around the paths in the park too.

6. Visit the Centro Cultural Kirchner. This is a massive building which used to be the main post office in Buenos Aires.

7. Visit Recoleta Cemetery. This is not like an ordinary cemetery. This real estate is the most expensive in Argentina per square foot. Its where the rich and famous are buried in impressive marble tombs surrounded by ornate sculptures. It’s free to enter but it’s a maze. There is a free walking tour at 3 pm daily here. The most visited burial site here is first lady Eva Perón’s tomb where people leave flowers and tributes to her.

8. Drink Malbec and eat steak. Argentina is the land of steak and fine wine. Some of the best ‘Parillas’ or steakhouses are in Buenos Aires. Some of the best restaurants in Latin America are located in Buenos Aires. Don Julio’s is renowned for its steak and great service.

9. Go to a tango show. Buenos Aires is the birthplace of tango, its a great place to take some tango lessons or watch the pros over a bottle of wine or three course meal. Some of the theaters offer an option of dinner, wine, a tango class and then a tango show by the pros. Its relatively inexpensive to go for just the show option.

10. Wander around the shops in Palermo and go for brunch. La Palermo area is a trendy place with countless boutiques, cute cafes and great restaurants. Up and coming designers display their once off jewelry and trendy discounted clothing here.

11. See La Casa Rosada (the pink house) and the Plaza de Mayo. The pink house is a beautiful building and perhaps one of the most important buildings in BA. It is where the president works and where Eva and Juan Peron delivered famous speeches from its balcony.

12. Visit the Museum of Latin American Art (MALBA). Its one of the city’s favourite museums located in the Palmero neighborhood that houses historical and contemporary art by Latin American artists. Entrance is 100 pesos and half price on Wednesdays.

13. Check out the vibrant and colourful Boca area. Boca is a lively area where you’ll find colourful buildings painted in a mismatch of colours, tango in the cobbled streets and artists work on display. Come during the day to take great photos of the famed famed bright Caminito street. Avoid coming here after dark, it can be a bit dodgy.

Where to stay

If you like to socialise and are a solo traveler or with a any size group really and are up for meeting people, Millhouse Hostel is the best place to go. They’re are two hostels, both only a 5 minute walk from each other and in great locations. They are known as party hostels but I couldn’t hear the music the nights I opted to stay in. They’re great for meeting people and they organise something every day and every evening so you’ll never be short of things to do.

Where to eat

The food In Buenos Aires is the best I’ve experienced in any place in Central or South America. SO good it deserved its own post. Check out my top 10 places to eat in Buenos Aires here.

Iguazu Falls (2 days)

Iguazu in the north is the gateway to visit the magnificent and breath taking Iguazu Falls. These waterfalls are one of the most famous sights of the continent. Iguazu Falls was named as one of the seven natural wonders of the world and should be on everyone’s Argentinian bucket list. Iguazu falls are both bigger and wider than Niagara Falls, 4 times wider to be exact. Iguazu falls straddles the Brazilian and Argentinian borders, 80% belongs to Argentina and 20% to Brazil. To experience the Iguazu falls to the fullest, the falls should be visited from both the Brazilian and Argentinian sides.

Puerto Iguazu:

This is the town on the Argentinian side and gateway to the falls from Argentina. I stayed in Nomads Hostel here before going to visit the falls. There are plenty of hostels and restaurants in the town.

Getting there:

Puerto Iguazu has an airport which has regular flights to and from Buenos Aires and other domestic airports. Flights domestically are relatively inexpensive. Buses also service from Salta, Asuncion and Buenos Aires. I took a night bus from Buenos Aires costing $30 and taking 19 hours. The buses aren’t as bad as they sound. You get a snack, a meal and drinks. They have toilets on board and some of the buses have charging points and WiFi.

I shared a taxi with 3 others to the falls from the hostel. It cost 1200 pesos (400/ €4.60 each) for all of us for a return taxi from the hostel and took about 20 minutes.

Visiting the falls takes two days. A full day is needed to see the Argentinian side, there’s a lot of walking to see all aspects of the falls from this side. It opens at 8 am and it is best to get there early to avoid long queues to buy tickets, the intense midday heat and the crowds when taking photos. The entrance fee is AR$800 (€13).

Foz do Iguaçu

This is the city on the Brazilian side and is much bigger than Peurto Iguazu. Visiting the Brazilian side to experience the panoramic views and getting a true appreciation for the sheer vastness of this natural wonder is a must. No photo will ever do it justice, you have to go experience for yourself and marvel at the beauty and enormity of the falls. The cost of visiting the Brazilian side is 70 real (€15.50). Visiting this side takes half a day and there is alot less walking. You will get wet as you get up close and personal with the falls on this side. You can visit the Brazilian side on a day trip from Argentina or can stay over night in Foz. Tetris Container Hostel is a great hostel in Foz.

Getting there and away:

A taxi from Peurto Iguazu will cost AR$1200 return or AR$800 one way and take about 30 minutes. It is very straight forward crossing the border into Brazil. The taxi driver waits while you get a stamp on your passport. No visas are required for European and as of June 2019, U.S. citizens no longer require a visa to enter Brazil for tourism.

A bus goes direct from Puerto Iguazu to Foz do Iguacu however the bus driver may not wait while you go through immigration and you may have to get another bus after you have been stamped in.

From Foz you can get buses to Paraguay, Buenos Aires, Rio, Florinopolis, Curbita, Sao Paulo, Resistencia and many more places. There is also an airport here which runs cheap domestic routes. There are two airports servicing Iguazu Falls, Peurto Igauzu on the Argentinian side and Foz do Iguacu on the Brazilian side. When booking flights its much cheaper to fly domestically so make sure you book arriving or departing from the right airport.

Salta and the north west (5 days)

The north west is one of the least trodden paths in Argentina. It is up against the dry Andes and one of the most beautiful areas in the country. Its rugged landscape, coloured mountains, indigenous influence, beautiful vineyards and colonial cities make it a diverse place to spend a few days in the the laid back towns of the Northwest. The towns of Humahuca, Pumamarca and Tilcara feel like you’re going back in time to the wild wild west.

Salta (1 day)

Salta is biggest area for tourism in the North West and its not hard to see why. The city is a modern size and has a lovely temperate climate. It’s colonial buildings and cobbled streets remain fairly untouched however this region received less European immigrants so it still holds a strong indigenous influence and their traditions. The city itself is lovely to spend a day but not much more than a full day is needed to explore. You can easily spend a week if not two wandering through the towns of the north west which still stand in time with their rural vibes and laid back pace.

Things to do

1. Visit the Plaza 9 de Juilo and sip a coffee on the edge of the square. Here you will find the plaza lined with colonial architecture, cathedrals, museums and coffee shops.
2. Take a photo outside the Catedral Basílica de Salta. This stunning cathedral is probably Salta’s most recognisable building.
3. Visit the colourful colonial churches of Salta.

4. Hike up Cerro San Bernardo. You can opt to take the cable car up or hike up, which is free and takes about 45 minutes. This trail is very safe and is pretty busy with locals getting in some exercise at the weekend. The views of the city are amazing,

5. Go to Museo Arqueologia de Alta Montana (MAAM). If you only chose one museum in Salta, make sure its this one. The museum is dedicated to anthropology and the culture of the Andean people. The most memorable part of the display is the mummified Inca children who were perfectly preserved by the ice. In 1999, scientists discovered the remains at the Llullaillaco volcano. It is believed the Incas sacrificed the children to the gods during a ceremony in about 1500. It’s half price if you have a student card also.

Where to stay

Coloria Hostel. Free breakfast, great location in the city center, only 200m from the main plaza, swimming pool and cooking facilities. Lovely hostel and dorms are €9 a night.

Where to eat

• Chirimoya Resto Vegetariano is an amazing vegan and vegetarian restaurant. It definitely isn’t cheap, still reasonable for great quality food but by Argentinian standards its on the pricer side. If you’re looking for good quality vegetarian and vegan food though, this is where you’ll get it.

• Dona Salta is known for producing the best empanadas in the city. Delicious and small so 8 would be enough for one person. They come served with bread and the most incredible dips.

Purmamarca (1/2 a day)

This postcard perfect town is home to the beautiful Cerro de los Siete Colores (7 coloured mountain), lots of artisan and craft markets and a large indigenous population. It’s quiet a touristy town and you can have the town covered in a few hours making it a perfect stop off on the way further north or south down towards Salta. The Cerro de los Siete Colores is free to visit. It takes about 1 hour to walk the route around. Three or four hours is perfect here to browse the markets, wander around the town, take the path around to explore the coloured mountains and grab lunch or an empanada on the street cooked on a fire in front of you.

Getting there and away:

I got dropped off here coming from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. Buses run from Humahuaca and Salta servicing the small towns along the way.

Tilcara (1 day)

Tilcara is worth spending a night in. It is the most lively of the villages along the Quebrada de Humahuaca and has lots of fun bars, restaurents and historical sights. It’s larger than Purmamarca and has more hostels and restaurants. It lies about 30 minutes by bus north of Purmamarca in the dramatic Quebrada de Humahuaca mountain valley. It has an artsy yet local feel. The dusty streets are lined with artisan stalls and hand painted murals. There is a bit more to do here; trek to a waterfall, visit museums and caves.

Tilcara is most popular attraction is Pucará de Tilcara, a well-preserved pre-Inca fortress located on the perimiter of the town. This archaeological site was orginally bulit by the Omaguaca people and was used from the 11th to 15th centuries. The ruins were discovered by archaeologists and partially reconstructed to demonstrate what it would have looked like when a large community of indigenous people lived here.

Near the ruins, the Jardin Botanico de Altura consist of a hundreds of impressive cacti.

Where to stay:

La Albahaca Hostel. This is a gorgeous family run hostel not far from the town. The family running it are so helpful and free breakfast is included. A bed in a 4 bed dorm is €6.25 (AR$400).

Hummahuca (1 day)

Humahuaca is a colonial town along the Quebrada de Humahuaca, it is about 30 mins further north from Tilcara. The vivid colour display created by nature is the primary reason visitors come to this UNSECO World Hertigate Site. The town is full of colourful murals inspired by indigenous people of the area.

The big draw to Humahuaca is the nearby Serranía del Hornocal. These jagged, jaw droppingly beautiful mountains are a 45 minute drive from the town.

The best time to visit is in the afternoon when the sun shines on the naturally carved and painted wonder. Most hostels will run a shared van to it. The drivers usually allow 30-40 mins here to take photos and enjoy the epic view before returning to the town. It is known as the 14 coloured mountain.

Watching sunset after a little hike up to the archaeological site of Peñas Blancas is another popular activity in Humahuaca.

Where to stay

Giramundo Hostel is a lovely hostel very near the bus station with good WiFi, free breakfast, a kitchen and heating in the dorms for $6 a night. It gets cold at night here due to the altitude.

Cafayate (3 days)

This was one of my favourite towns in the North West. Its famous for the Torrontés grape which is only grown in Argentina, these crisp white wines are some of the best in the world. The town is set back in time with actual tumble tweeds rolling on the dusty streets. Vineyards or bodegas are dotted around the area with plenty in the town and some a cycle away. There is a lot to do in this town, from discovering the stunning landscapes of the Quebrada de las Conchas and devouring bottles of the finest Torrontés, cycling the dusty back roads around the vineyards, its a town you could find yourself staying longer than planned.

Getting there and away

Buses to and from Salta stop in Cafayate. It takes about 4 hours and costs €8.

I took a bus from Cafayate to Tucuman which took about 5.5 hours. From Tucuman there are buses serving Buenos Aires, Mendoza and other bigger cities.

1. Visit the bodegas. There are some bodegas in the town and others a little further out. Some of them do free tasting. Try Nanni Bodegas in the town and if you rent a bike you will get more out the experience. One of the finest vineyards a short cycle away is Fina Las Nubes.

2. Try wine ice cream. Some. Genius decided to combine two of life’s greatest pleasure. Gelato and wine. Try some of the finest Torrentes or Malbec flavoured ice cream. Beware though, it’s not like just a hint of wine added to flavour, it’s like having a glass of wine!

3. Eat empanadas. Empanadas are popular all over Argentina, but empanadas from the province of Salta are supposed to be the best in the country! The home of salteñas empanadas is La Casa De Las Empanadas. They’re really cheap and tasty and you can order a jug of wine to wash them down.

4. Cycle the 50km Quebrada de las Conchas. While there are tour companies that will bring you along this route by bus, the real adventure is navigating it by bike. The long empty winding roads, blue skies and spectacular red rock formations make this long and not particularly easy cycle a really rewarding one. It’s advised to cycle from Cafayate and get the bus back, rather than the other way around. It’s mainly downhill away from Cafayate. If you feel really energetic you can cycle back too but there was not a chance I was cycling back mainly uphill for a few more hours so I caught the bus outside La Garganta del Diablo. This is the last point on the route. Check the bus times before leaving. The bus will store the bikes under the bus and takes about 40 minutes back to Cafayate.I rented a bike from the hostel for the day. They provided a lock, a pump, helmets and a spare tube.

5. Visit the museo de la vid y vino. With all the wine you’ll be drinking its nice to know where its come from and why the region is so special and able to produce such good quality wine. Apparently its due to the cold nights and long warm days, specific to regions in altitude.

6. Visit a goats cheese factory. Cabras De Cafayate is a winery too and produces goats cheese aswel as wine. The vineyards are actually fertilised with the goat manure. You can visit the farm and have a look around at the hundreds of goats, llamas and cows. The farm is about a 20 minute walk from the center of town and they offer guided tours that end in a tasting of their cheeses.

Where to stay

Hostel Ruta 40. This hostel is right in the middle of the town about a 15 minute walk from the bus station. They provide good bikes for rent, your standard free Argentine breakfast of sugary cereal, bread and dulce de leche, a kitchen and a nice courtyard outside. A night here in a drom costs €6.40.

Where to eat

It can be hard to find good vegetarian food or an alternative to empanadas and steak here. El Zorrito is a bit on the price side but the food is great and the location is perfect, right on the edge of the plaza and there are seats outside to people watch in the sun. They do lentils, veggie burgers and wok style vegetable dishes.

Mendoza (3 days)

If you like red wine, specifically Malbec, you will have surely heard of Mendoza. It is by far the largest of the wine regions in a Argentina located on the western edge of Argentina, across the Andes mountains from Chile.

Getting there and away

There is an airport in Mendoza and domestic flights are relatively inexpensive in Argentina. Sometimes it is cheaper to fly than take the bus so it’s worth checking the prices. I took an overnight bus from Tucuman. This took 14 hours and cost AR $3000 (€50).

Buses from Santiago and Buenos Aires service Mendoza. The bus route to Santiago is so beautiful, the scenery is incredible. The route traverses the Andes and is worth travelling during the day to appreciate the scenery. The journey in total including the border crossing took about 6 hours.

Things to do:

I wasn’t overly taken by the city itself but the surrounding areas of Mendoza have so much to offer.

1. Rent bikes and go on a self guided wine tour. This was hands down the most fun I had in Argentina. We got an uber from the city center to Mr. Hugos bikes and rented bikes for the day. Mr. Hugo was really helpful with advising on what vineyards to visit and gave us maps. Go early to make the most of the day. The bikes have to be returned at 6.30 pm which seems like loads of time but it flys by when you’re drinking wine and cycling between the vineyards.

2. Watch the sunset over the Andes from horse back and enjoy unlimited wine and bbq after. We booked this evening through Backpacker Travels. It was €38 for return transport to the hostel, horse riding at sunset followed by a BBQ and unlimited wine. This was a great evening, the food was amazing and the wine was flowing. I’d highly recommend it. The horses were well looked after and quiet.

3. Go on a free walking tour. The free walking goes twice a day, 11am and 3pm everyday except Sundays, when the tour takes place only at 11am. The tour lasts about 2.5 hours and bring you to the main points of interest.

4. Enjoy a drink over the view of the city. El Faro bistro has one of the nicest views from it rooftop bar. Enjoy a drink and watch the sunset from here.

Where to stay

Hostel windmill: This place had one of the best free hostel breakfasts I’ve had with eggs, cereal, breads, oats, seeds, so many different types of jams and home made peanut butter, juices and fresh fruit. Its BYOB, has a pool table, a kitchen, social atmosphere and good location too. Nice clean bathrooms and 4 bed dorms.

Where to eat

• Beruit cafe- opposite where the tours for tips wlaking tour leaves from. Lovely cafe doing vegetarian options. Good for brunch and lunch.
• Ever Green– another amazing veggie place that is buffet style and you pay per weight. Not the cheapest, depending on how high you stack your plate but the variety of food is incredible.

Places I didn’t get to but are on the list for next time:

1. Baroliche: for summer hiking and winter skiing.
2. El Calafate and El Chalten in Patagonia: for glaciers and incredible hiking.
3. Cordoba: for quaint little surrounding mountain towns and the culture capital of the Americas.
4. Tierra del Fuego: for barren mystical islands, cut off from the northern world by the Straight of Magellan and the feeling of being at the end of the earth.