Complete guide to Kangaroo Island. 3 night/4 day itinerary.

Kangaroo Island is the modern day Noah’s Arc located off the south east coast of South Australia. It is one of the world’s greatest nature destinations abundant with wildlife, native bushland and marine life. The island has 509 km of coastline and is 155km from East to West. You definitely need longer than you think. The island os much bigger than expected and some of the roads unsealed which slows down travel time. It is not advisable to drive at night, dusk or dawn due to the high numbers of wildlife. Driving through the island you will see a lot of road kill which is so sad so please respect the animals habitat and don’t drive at night. There is a lot to see on this amazing island and there are not enough adjectives to describe just how magical it is.

HOW TO GET THERE

By sea: The ferry leaves from Cape Jervis, about a 2 hour drive south of Adelaide. Kangaroo Island SeaLink’s vehicle and passenger ferry service operates daily (except Christmas Day) between Cape Jervis and Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island. The ferry takes just 45 minutes and you can bring your car over on it. A car is essential on KI, it’s a big island and having a car makes the island so much more accessible. If you don’t wish to drive there are some bus companies running tours but they can be expensive. Cost: vehicle is $98 one way and then an additional $49 each way per adult travelling. A return ferry for two adults is $392 so it definitely isn’t a cheap trip over. Ferries leave several times per day. Booking in advance is essential as they book out in advance. Click here for the timetable.

By air: Regional Express Airlines (Rex) services Kangaroo Island via a 30 minute flight, operating between the main terminal at the Adelaide Airport and Kangaroo Island Airport.

TOP TIPS

• There is wildlife EVERYWHERE! Be ready to suddenly put on the brakes as a kangaroo or enchilada appear on the road out of nowhere and don’t seem to be in a hurry to move either. It is their home so slow down and protect the wildlife.
• Do not drive at night or dusk and dawn, for the same reason. Many of the animals are nocturnal and are about in abundance at night.
• There is only two places on the island to fill up with fuel, and it is very expensive. Make sure you have a full tank getting on the ferry and plan your journey out so you aren’t stuck. The only two places on the island to get fuel are Vivonne Bay General Store and in Kingscote.
• If you are camping or on a budget, fill up with supplies and food before coming onto the island. There are two IGAs- Kingscote and Penneshaw and some small general stores otherwise but they are expensive and limited in their selection.
• Book accommodation well in advance, it is also limited and during the summer accommodation books out as do tours and restaurants so plan well in advance.
• There are no shops or fresh water available in the national park, it gets hot in summer so have enough food and water with you.

WHERE TO STAY

The island is much bigger than I first imagined, the biggest town on the island and most options for accommodation is Kingscote so I would recommend basing yourself here or if you have longer than a few days, spend a few days in Penneshaw and a few in Kingscote. If you are camping and have a campervan or tent, I would recommend spending at least a night in Vivonne Bay campsite. There are plenty of campsites around KI.

Aurora Ozone Hotel Kangaroo Island: We stayed in this lovely beach front 4 star hotel in Kingscote during our time in KI. It is $129 a night for two people sharing, has a pool, a gym and is right in the centre of Kingscote with on street parking.

HOW LONG TO STAY

Minimum 3 nights, anything else is too short and makes it a very expensive few days as the ferry isn’t cheap. 5 days would be ideal but we got to see pretty much everything we wanted to see in 3 days but it was a busy 3 days with early starts. 5 days would have been perfect to allow for a bit more beach and relaxing time.

3 night/ 4 day itinerary:

DAY 1: Get an early morning ferry over. Head into the visitor centre and get some maps and advice before heading on your KI adventure. Check out the Cape Willoughby Lighthouse, then go for lunch in Dudley wines. Check in at your accommodation in Kingscote and Penneshaw and head to the Emu Bay Lavender Farm and pick up a scone and coffee. After that head to Emu Bay to relax on the beach for a while. Catch sunset at Flagstaff Hill before heading back for dinner in Bellas Cafe in Kingscote.

DAY 2: Get up early and grab some breakfast in Cactus in Kingscote. Make sure you have a full tank of fuel, water and snacks before heading off to Flinders Chase National Park for the day. Stop off at the Remarkable Rocks, Admirals Arch, Weir’s Lookout and Cape Du Couedic lighthouse. On your way back stop for a famous whiting burger in Vivonne Bay General Store and then head to an afternoon tour of at the Seal Bay Conservation Centre. Spruce up a bit back at the hotel in Kingscote before dinner in Odd Plate.

DAY 3: Drive to Vivonne Bay to enjoy a morning swim off Vivonne Bay jetty, check out the rock pools behind the jetty car park and enjoy some beach time. Head back at 12.30 pm towards Penneshaw for an ocean safari snorkelling tour at 2 pm. Go to Hanson Bay Wildlife Park for their sunset nocturnal tour to see koalas in the wild.

Day 4: Go to Stokes Bay cafe for breakfast, caves and enjoying some beach time. Check out one of the wineries, honey farm or brewery in the afternoon. Head towards the ferry in Pennesahw to catch an evening ferry back to the mainland and finish your amazing time on KI with the best meal at Sunset Bar and Restaurant for dinner ending with enough time to make the last ferry back.

THINGS TO DO

• Flinders Chase National Park. The national park had been devastated in the bushfires of Dec 2019-Jan 2020. The charred branches of trees and the aftermath of the bushfires are still very much apparent when driving through Flinders Chase but it was great to see how much of the bush has regenerated at the same time. The national park is an hour and a half drive from Kingscote and there is no fuel past Vivonne Bay General Store so ensure you have enough to get you there and back. The main sights of the park are: The Remarkable Rocks, The Admiral’s Arch, Weir’s Lookout and Cape Du Couedic lighthouse. The latter three are located in the same area, about a 10 min drive from the Remarkable Rocks. Cost: $11 pp to enter the park. Pay on your way into the park at the visitor centre.

• Visit Emu Bay Lavender Farm. A lavender farm with a cute cafe and shop serving and selling everything you could think about infusing lavender with.

• Swim at Vivonne Bay Jetty and swimming hole. This is paradise on earth. The jetty is surrounded by the clearest, bright blue waters waters, white sandy cliffs and a few boats that seem like they are floating on glass. Each time we came to the jetty there was only a handful of people here jumping off the jetty and snorkelling. Just behind the jetty there is a beautiful crystal clear swimming hole which we had to ourselves.

• Vivonne Bay Beach: Possible the most beautiful beach we have seen to date, driving over the hill has a jaw dropping effect. The beach is deserted, has the whitest sand and clearest water which goes on for miles.

• Emu Bay: Another beautiful beach on the north side of the island near Kingscote. It lacks shops and campgrounds, but its beach ranks among the most popular on the island due to its clear waters, long shoreline, and the fact it is the only beach on KI where you drive directly onto.

• Stokes Bay. To get to this secluded beach tourists have to follow the sign to the beach through caves. The beach is sheltered from waves and is perfectly calm for swimming. It has a lovely cafe there too. The road are awful to get here though so it takes longer than you would imagine.

• Seal Bay Conservation Park . Seal Bay is home to one of the largest colony of Australian sea lions and offers a unquie experience to get up close to sea lions in their natural habitat. There are no enclosures or cages at Seal Bay. You can access the beach with one of the experienced guides which lasts 45 minutes and costs $38 adult, $21.50 child. If you prefer just to view the sea lions from the boardwalk which meanders through the dunes to a number of viewing platforms, this is $17/ 10.50 (adult/child). I would recommend the guided tour though to be able to access the beach. The centre is open from 9-4 am and the last tour is at 3pm.

• The Hanson Bay Sanctuary. This is the best place on Kangaroo Island to see a sustainable population of Koalas in the wild. At the time we visited they were shut due to staffing issues but are due to open as of March 2022. Bookings are essential.They run tours during the day (10.30 am and 2.30pm for 90 mins. The sunset nocturnal adventure tour runs daily and gives you the opportunity to learn about the nocturnal animals on KI. This is the best tour for spotting koalas in the wild. Cost: Daytime tour: $35, sunset tour: $70
• Watch sunset at Flagstaff Hill. Climb the stairs to get a panoramic view over KI, best time to visit is sunset.

• Snorkel with dolphins and seals. Kangaroo Island Ocean Safari offers 2 hour snorkelling tours with dolphins and seals. They are the only operator in South Australia that provides the opportunity to swim with the Long-nosed Seals. They provide masks, fins, wetsuits and snorkels. Book online or book in the visitor centre. The tour leaves from Penneshaw on certain days of the week so call in advance or check with the visitor centre what days they are running. If the sea is rough or there are high winds the tour will be cancelled. Try book for your first or second day on the island so if it is cancelled, you can try get on a tour later in the week. Cost: $150.
• Take a tour of the Cape Willoughby Lighthouse. They offer a guided tour of the lighthouse which is steeped in maritime history. The the top of the lighthouse offers spectacular panoramic views across Backstairs Passage. There is a nice short heritage hike about 2km long which takes you by a stunning hidden cove, perfect for swimming on a hot day.

WHERE TO EAT

Worth noting there is very few places open for dinner in Kingscote on a Monday! Along with COVID-19 causing shortage of staff, a lot of the restaurants were struggling to remain open.

• Odd plate: A must when staying in Kingscote, definitely the nicest restaurant in Kingscote serving modern Australian cuisine designed to share. They are currently serving a set five course ‘feed me’ menu for $75 pp. The food is beautifully presented and there is a focus on seasonal, locally scoured ingredients. Open Wed-Sun 5.30 pm til late. https://www.theoddplate.com.au/

• Bella cafe and pizza bar: A lovely, casual Italian serving pizzas, pastas and deserts. They are only open on Monday’s for takeaway.

• Dudley wines: Kangaroo Island is famous for its good food and wine. Dudley wines is a beautiful clifftop winery 12 km from Penneshaw, which boasts stunning views of the coast. Book ahead for lunch and book a seat on the terrace. They also do cheese and meat mixed platters for $30 as well as lunch and pizzas. Wine tasting starts at $14.

• Cactus Kingscote. Bess place for lunch and breakfast in Kingscote, no bookings necessary. Serving all your brunch favourites and have daily specials on the board.

• Emu Bay Lavender Farm Cafe: Go for the amazing lavender scones as big as your head. They also have a full breakfast and lunch menu.

• Vivonne Bay General Store: Home to the famous whiting burger, stopping off here is a must to try the local specialty. If whiting isn’t your your thing, they also have shark and some veggie options of sandwichs and burgers.

• Sunset food and wine. The most beautiful setting of any of the places we ate on KI serving modern Australian food overlooking the beautiful American Beach.​ It was the first restaurant on Kangaroo Island to be awarded one Chef Hat from the Australian Good Food Guide in 2017. It is located a 5 minute drive from Penneshaw so it is perfect for a sunset dinner before the last ferry​. The staff are well aware visitors are looking to catch the last ferry so serve the food swiftly with plenty fo time to enjoy the views. There is a very steep hill to get up to the restaurant on an unsealed road. They are open Tuesday and Wednesday for lunch and for dinner and lunch Thur- Sat, closed Mon and Tue. https://www.sunsetfoodandwine.com/

I hope you found this blog helpful. Let me know in the comments if you have been and if I missed anything or if you have any questions. I love hearing when people have found my guides useful.