NSW Coastal Road Trip

The North and Central Coast of New South Wales is beautiful with so many gorgeous, empty beaches that go on for miles (literally, one of them 31 km long), rainforest, pristine National Parks, mountains and dotted with cute, quaint seaside towns. I took a road trip up the coast, North of Sydney and finishing up in Byron Bay. I wasn’t sure what to expect although I had heard of the beautiful expansive beaches and quieter towns where people are friendlier and things move at a less hectic pace. I would highly recommend a road trip up the coast, stopping to explore the beaches, National Parks, sunrises, hikes and quaint cafes.

Central Coast

Long Jetty

Named appropriately for its three extremely long jetties, this once sleepy town has been dubbed the “Newtown fo the Central Coast” and has been gaining attention and fast becoming the Central Coasts hippest destination. With plenty of cool eateries, unique boho boutiques, sleek bars and pretty jetties, it is perfect for a lunch stop off or a day out from Sydney.

Things to do:

1. Enjoy a walk along the jetties and the Foreshore walk. They are even more beautiful at sunset.

2. Shop in some of the quirkies, boho style boutiques or raid through the vintage record and clothes stores. My favourites are:

• Shadow Bang
• Sadie Lou
• Plain Janes
• Wild Berry

3. Eat and drink in some delicious cafes, but make sure you are there before 2pm as the cafes stop serving lunch after 2.30pm and there are very few palces open for dinner, especially on a Sunday evening! My favourites are:

• The Glass Onion for breakfast, lunch, live music and veggie friendly hearty meals.
• Green Tangerine for buttery croissants, good coffee and french pastries.
• Bowlarama for unreal smoothie bowls
• Modern Organic for yoga and everything plant based made with love.

Mid North Coast

Forster

A lovely quaint seaside coastal town in the heart of the Great Lakes region about 3.5 hour drive north of Sydney. The town is a perfect base to explore the Great Lakes region, enjoy the gorgeous beaches and spot some dolphins or go whale watching. Along the foreshore walk where people were fishing, I spotted a pod of dolphins just cruising by so close to the shore. The locals informed me this was a very regular occurrence.

Where to stay

Forster Motor Inn: I stayed in Forster Motor Inn, right in the centre of town with a small pool and onsite parking. It is fairly basic but ideal location and had a small kitchenette. It was one of the cheapest hotel options at $95 per room per night.

Eating

Tartt: Busy cafe in the heart of Forster serving typical Australian style breakfast and lunch and great coffee. Plenty of veggie friendly options and also heart burgers, avo on toast with poached eggs, french toast, full fry up and waffles. There is always a line for it too which is a good sign.

Cafe Toscano: Gorgeous outside seating area filled with twinkling fairy lights and flowers resembling an enchanted garden with a sophisticated 1950’s vintage decor inside serving mediterranean/ Italian cuisine. This is one of the nicest places for a reasonable and filling breakfast or lunch and a great spot for coffee and cake or an evening cocktail.

Beach bums: Beach side cafe serving mouth watering treats on display in the cabinet under where you order, making it next to impossible to resist a brownie or caramel slice. The cafe has outdoor seating which looks directly onto the main beach. Great breakfast menu with good coffee and acai bowls to die for.

Spice monkey: Ranked the number one restaurant in Forster serving creative Asian fusion and fresh sushi and sashimi. They have an extensive wine and cocktails list too.

Things to do:

Enjoy the beautiful beaches. The main beach is perfect for swimming, it was so flat it looked like glass the morning I came down to the beach and has a huge ocean pool. My favourite beaches around Forster were:

• Main Beach
• One Mile Beach
• Burgess Beach

Enjoy the gorgeous coastal walks. The Pebbly Beach Bicentennial Walk starts at the Main Beach and covers the Main Beach Ocean Baths, The Tanks, Bennett’s Head and One Mile Beach with plenty of opportunities for swimming, sunbathing and picnicking. It’s about 4 km one way and takes 2 hours walking return. Bennett’s head is a great place to spot whales and pods of dolphins.

Go SUPing or kayaking with dolphins in the crystal waters of Wallis Lake. Accessing the Great Lakes and their tranquil waters and abundance of wildlife. You can rent paddle boards and kayaks from $30 on the waterfront, 10 min walk from the town centre. https://waterlineboathouse.com.au/

Nearby Forster:

Explore the Great Lakes and the Booti Booti National Park. There are some great walks in the Myall Lakes and the National Park. Just 20 km from Forster, The Booti Hill Lakeside walk follows the rigid line of the Boot Booti National Park and takes in the thrilling views of Pacific Ocean and Wallis Lake. The walk begins at Ruins campgrounds and follows a well signed track through twisted eucalyptus. The walk is a 7.3 km loop which takes about 2.5 hours walking. Take your camera and swim suit as it’s a perfect spot migrating whales and sensational sunsets.

Mungo Rainforest Walk. Mungo walking track is an easy walk taking you through enhanced coastal rainforest. There are two options of a longer (21km) or shorter loop (1.5 km) that can be done in one day or broken up into a few shorter walks. The track is in the Myall Lakes National Park, not far from Buladelah. Afterwards, you can enjoy a picnic or barbecue at Mungo Brush. You are likely to see brush turkeys and colourful birds.

Beaches and towns

Some of the most stunning beaches in Australia (if not the world!) in my opinion, are along the Mid North Coast of NSW. Scattered up the coast I came across some beaches famous for their vastness, clear waters and white sand. There is something for everyone from surfing beaches, nudist beaches and bays perfect for swimming.

Seal rocks

My favourite of them all! Seal rocks is a teeny tiny sleepy seaside holiday village famed for its surfing beaches, lighthouse and panoramic coastal views. Camping is very popular here and there are a few air bnbs with spectacular views or the famous lighthouse cottages if you have a bit more dosh to splash.

Walk up to the lighthouse and enjoy the panoramic views of the beaches below and expansive coast line. The walk takes about 20 minutes and has parking at the start of the walking track. It starts in a wooden forest and finishes with ocean either side.

The other beaches worth checking out in the Pacific Palms area are:

• Blueys beach , apparently this beach got its name from a cow that fell off of a cliff.
• Boomerang beach
• Elizabeth beach

Blueys Beach has a tiny village to it just before the beach with a grocery store and a few restaurants and cafes.

Eating:

• Kembali Cafe serves breakfast and lunch 6.30 am- 14.30 daily and is open for dinner 17.30- 19.30 on Friday and Saturday.
• Hueys serves great pizza for dine in or take away and opens daily 17.00- 21.00.
• Drift Cafe always has a queue outside it and serves breakfast burgers, fries, fish, burgers and smoothies from 7- 14.00.

Port Macquarie

5 hour drive from Sydney, the halfway point from Sydney to Byron Bay and 1 and a quarter hours from Forster, Port Macquarie was the next stop off on my road trip. A beautiful coastal town at the mouth of the Hastings River and the Pacific Ocean. Known for its extensive beaches, waterways, ampel surfing and swimming spots and long coastal walks. It makes a good point to stop off between Sydney and Brisbane and enjoy the great food scene on the way.

Where to stay

Or where not to stay for a romantic night or weekend away but where to stay when on a budget. Excelsior Motor Inn was quite the dive but worked perfect for one night, had AC and clean bathrooms with toiletries. I opened up a drawer to find a used bowl with dried in milk and cereal which obviously had been the previous guest’s breakfast or midnight snack. Other than that, it was perfect for a quick cheap stop off with onsite parking and a few minutes walk to the beaches and to the city.

Things to do:

Visit the Kooala Hospital. A trip to the world’s first koala hospital is ranked the number one activity to do in Port Macquire. The hospital is dedicated dedicated to rescuing and rehabilitating koalas, researching treatments, pharmaceuticals and practices to conserve koalas and their habitat. It’s free to visit and you can buy souvenirs or donate to support the amazing work being done here, especially after the recent devastating bushfires earlier this year.

Run or walk along the coast. A beautiful coastal walk spanning 9 km winds along the coast taking in Town Beach, Rocky Beach lookout, Nobby’s Beach and harry’s lookout. The walk starts from Town Green foreshore and finishes at Tackling Point lighthouse. There are plenty of places to swim and sunbathe. Stop of a coffee or bite to eat half way at The Sandbox cafe on Flynn’s Beach. One way the track is 9 km and takes 2 hours.

Watch the whales from Tackling Point lighthouse.

Admire the artwork and riverside walk along Breakwall Walking Path. Colourful rocks adorn the path with dolphins cruising in the river to one side and surfers to the other. It’s a great place to watch sunset too.

Take a stroll in the Sea Acres Rainforest along the boardwalk. This is an easy 1.3 km walk through the rainforest canopy, 7 m above the underfloor making it ideal for exploring the busy rainforest habitat. Keep an eye out for rainforest birds and diamond python. Entry is $9 for an adult and $5 for a child which includes an guided tour. Its open daily 9am- 4.30 pm.

Eating

Social grounds. Funky little cafe open for breakfast and lunch doing vegan versions of their hearty breakfasts, smoothie bowls and daily specials plus the classics like avo on toast.

Lv’s on Clarence. Cute cafe with great coffee, veggie friendly breakfasts and friendly staff. They focus on providing fresh local produce and the menu is crafted on what the local farmers have to offer.Open 7- 14.30 Mon- Fri, 7-12pm on Sundays and closed on Saturdays.

Coffs Harbour

Coffs Harbour was my last over night stop before my final destination of Byron Bay on the road trip. The coastal city is known for its beaches and the Big Banana monument and amusement park, but there is a lot more to Coffs Harbour than the Big Banana. It’s one of the few places you can snorkel with migrating whales, it is home to abundant wildlife, seasonal whales and coral reefs.

Where to stay:

This should probably be titled “where not to stay” instead. I stayed in Moey Hoey Hotel which is has backpacker dorm accommodation, private rooms, a pub and bottle shop. The hotel back onto the beach and is about 30 mins walk from the heart of the city. It seems like a great place to stay if you’re doing farm work, blueberry pickers seems to make up most of the patrons. The pub seems lively enough and has live music, the dorms are dingy enough but grand for a night at $30. Private ensuite rooms start at $84 per night which is the cheapest around.

Things to do:

Take in the views from Muttonbird Island Nature Reserve. This was my favourite thing to do in Coffs Harbour. with its large population of wedge-tailed shearwater birds and learning centre. The beautiful island adjacent to the harbour, also known as Giidany Miirlarl, is home to the precious seabird and is one of the very few places that is easily reached to see these birds nest. The views from the top of the island are unforgettable, I saw whales breaching too from the top. The best times to witness these migratory birds is in autumn and winter to spot whales.

Walk along the Coffs Harbour Jetty. One of the icons of Coffs Harbour, the jetty is well worth a visit. The boardwalk is paved and lined with cafes, ice creameries and fresh seafood stalls. You can walk along the northern breakwall from the marina to Muttonbird Island. The short walk up the steep hill is well worth it for the incredible views of the marina, hinterland, coastline and beaches below.

Sample Coffs Harbour’s great beaches and watch the breathtaking sunrises. There are gorgeous beaches along the coast and some great coastal walks. I witnessed one of the best sunrises yet whilst on Macauleys Headland Walk taking in Macauleys Headland, Diggers Beach and Diggers Head. Head up slightly north of Coffs Harbour to watch the sunrise with some company. Kangaroos are abundant near Emerald Beach at a spot called Look At Me Now Headland.

Grab a coffee at My Mate’s Place van after a coastal walk. The cutest coffee van with the friendliest barista. Grab a coffee beside Macauleys beach car park and enjoy the sunrise.

Swim with humpback whales. Dive Jetty at Coffs Harbour is one of the few places in the world I know of it to be possible to snorkel with humpback whales. The window of this is very short (late August to mid Sept) and availability is very limited so booking well in advance is essential. Of course seeing whales are not guaranteed but they do have a high success rate in spotting these amazing creatures. It’s not cheap starting at $195 pp mid week and jumping to $250 on weekends. It is essentially an extended whale watch trip, where the boat finds and follows humpback whales and maintains the distance required by the regulations so the mammals do not feel threatened. The snorkelers are allowed into the water and if the whales are curious enough, they might cruise past the snorkelers for a look. It was booked out when I was in Coffs Harbour so I didn’t get to experience it but it seems like ethical ecotourism and an experience of a lifetime. https://jettydive.com.au/whale-swimming-at-coffs-harbour/

Stop off at The Big Banana, even just for a photo. Australians love big things, one of them being blown up foods. The Big Banana isn’t just a gigantic piece of fruit there to get a photo with, it is a fun park filled with a giant water slide, mini golf, toboggan, candy kitchen and reptile centre. I didn’t venture inside, a glimpse of the banana was enough for me.

Eating and drinking:

Elements bar. One of the view places that stays open past 10pm and has a bit of night time atmosphere. The food here is pretty good with specials each night of the week and has live music at the weekends. I arrived on a Monday night during COVID and it was impossible to get a table without booking ahead. During normal times I don’t think booking would be essentially during the week.

Twenty 47. Ranked the number 1 cafe in Coffs Harbour on tripadvisor, it isn’t hard to see why. The cafe serves breakfast and lunch menu open from 6am- 3pm daily. They have sweet treats, sweet and savoury breakfast options and hearty but healthy lunch options from pulled pork nachos to vegan buddha bowls.

Urban Espresso. Lovely laid back cafe serving all day breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers and a full page of amazing salads. They also have a dedicated vegan menu and are very reasonable. Open 5:30am-2:30pm everyday.

Mama Chita . Ranked the number 1 restaurant on tripadvisor in Coffs Harbour, Mama Chita serves African style authentic food from the Horn of Africa region, offering a range of dishes from mild stews and stir fries to super hot curries. They have a wide range of vegan and veggie dishes too. They are open Tue-Sun 17.30- 21.30.

Yamba

Byron Bay’s smaller sister and better kept secret, Yamba is a vibrant, laid back coastal town with world class surf breaks, beautiful beaches and a town just about buzzy enough.

Check out Yambas best beaches.

Walk to the lighthouse.

Check out Yambas Farmer and produce market. Held every Wednesday between 7-11 am in the car park between Whiting and Turner’s. This cute local market is a favourite among visitors and Yamba dwellers alike. You will find everything here from organic fruit and veg grown in backyards to high quality meat and artesian products like sourdough.

Eating

Beachwood. A favourite in Yamba, perfect for a long lunch in the sun. The menu is a blend of Mediterranean and Middle-Eastern dishes, inspired by the founders Turkish background. Open for breakfast from 7am–11am and lunch from 11:30am to 2pm.

Caperberry cafe: Cute cafe with outdoor seating catching the sun right in the centre of town. Serving great coffee, delicious onsite homemade treats, salads, burgers and all day breakfast. Open from 6am- 3.30 pm daily.

Drift Pizza Bar: Open for dinner and drinks Thu-Sun 5pm- late and Sunday for brunch 9-12pm. Serves pizza only and has the option of gluten free bases. The Sunday brunch menu has the usual breakfast/ brunch suspects of musli, salmon, eggs and bacon, avo and sourdough and bloody marys.

Byron Bay

This deserve a whole post on it’s own of things to do, places to eat, where to drink, walks to tackle and sunsets to watch. Click here to check out another post on the best places to eat and drink in Byron. The aforementioned are to come in another post.