3 week travel itinerary for The Philippines.

A country made up of over 7,000 islands, pristine waters, white beaches, Gatorade waterfalls and countless lagoons, the Philippines must be one of the most instgrammable countries in the world. It’s one of those places that looks better than the photos and was so much more beautiful than I could have imagined.

General/ things to know:

• The capital is Manila, most international flights fly into here or Cebu. I didn’t spend any time in Manila itself but from what I saw moving between airport terminals, the traffic is crazy. Most people try get out of Manila ASAP and get to the islands.
• Airport terminals are up to a 30 minute drive from each other. Leave plenty of time to get between terminals. The domestic and international terminals and terminals 1,2 and 3 are all a drive or bus away from each other and with the horrendous traffic, it can take 30 minutes in a taxi or by bus to get between terminals. Bare this in mind when planning your flights.
• Currency is Philippine Peso ₱ (€1= ₱ 55/ USD $1= ₱ 50/ AUD $1= ₱ 34).
• Things in the Philippines run on islands time. The timetables and schedules are more of a suggestion than something that is adhered to. It is just somewhere you need to chill, relax and let things happen when they happen.
• Flights and boats will be cancelled. Due to weather conditions, ferries and flights are regularly cancelled and delayed so give yourself plenty of time for connecting flights and make sure your connections are guaranteed with the airlines or your travel insurance will cover missed connections due to delayed departure of flights and ferries. Be prepared to be stuck on an island for days if a typhoon strikes.
• Food poisoning is rifle in El Nido. I think I’ve a stomach of steel after almost a year of traveling and guzzling the tap water in Bolivia probably made me resistant to numerous types of parasites, so I was one of the few people not to get food poisoning from El Nido. Be careful in the Philippines in general with fresh salad and ice. I had no problem but I know others did. Whatever you do don’t drink the tap water or ice in El Nido.
• Wifi is pretty shit. Thankfully though you can get a local sim for less than $20 a month for 4G. I got a sim and hot spotted my laptop when I needed. Power cut outs aren’t uncommon too. Have the batteries charged on the head torches.
• Learning to ride a scooter is imperative. Getting around a lot of the islands is near impossible without a scooter or motorbike. They’re pretty cheap to rent for the day (350 PHP) and can be cheaper for long term hire.
• Carry a rain mac all the time. Downpours can come out of nowhere. Thankfully they don’t tend to last that long.
• Cash is king. The Philippines is probably the worst country I’ve ever been to for accepting card and there is no way from getting away from the ATM withdrawal fee. Every ATM charges a withdrawal fee of  ₱250 and the maximum amount you can withdraw is  ₱10,000. If you can pay in card, they usually charge a surcharge so best just to take cash out.

Getting there

International flights all fly into Manila with some international flights from south east Asia landing into Cebu. The Philippines isn’t the easiest to get around and visiting more than one or two islands usually involves domestic flights or ferries. When traveling around, tourists generally tend to either go east or west and try not to come back on themselves to save time and amount of flying around. When planning an itinerary, pick the places you want to visit and chose a direction to travel in. To fly to some islands you will have to fly via Cebu or fly back to Manila to fly onward.

Cebu

Cebu is the most densely populated island in the Philippines. It draws in huge numbers of tourists every year due to its pristine beaches, diving spots from Malapascua off the northern tip to Moalboal in the south and famous waterfalls.

Cebu city is a busy, grimy city that I spend no time in but I have heard good things about its nightlife and emerging eateries. The international airport here is a main travel hub for domestic and international flights so the airport in Cebu is unavoidable for most people. I stayed one night here before a flight in Jiji’s Hostel, a lovely hostel a 15 minute walk from the airport. They provide free breakfast, AC and towels. The owner even made me breakfast before the usual starting time as I had an early flight. A dorm room here is €12 a night.

Moalboal

Located in the south west of Cebu, Moalboal is a small seaside town famous for its marine life and diving. Moalboal is a 3.5 hour drive from Cebu. If there are a few of you, getting a taxi doesn’t work out too expensive. Otherwise you are looking at getting the bus down to from the South station bus stop which can be up to an hour drive away from the airport in peak traffic. A taxi should not cost over 300 peso from the airport.

There are two buses, both local buses but one has AC and the other has no AC and is slightly more expensive (about €1.50 more). The AC bus costs 158 peso. It’s a long, slow and uncomfortable journey to spend the extra quid to take the AC bus. The bus drops you off along the main road, at the turn off for Moalboal town. It is about 5 km from the seaside village where the hostels and hotels are. From here you get get a trike or a scooter down to the main hostel area. There are two main areas or parts to Moalboal, one being the dive and accommodation strip with restaurants, shops and bars near the water front (Panagsama Beach), and the other being on what is locally known as the highway (main road). Here is where the bus drop off and pick up points are and there is a pharmacy, supermarket and Mc Donald’s.

How long to stay:

It really depends on how much diving you want to do or if you dive at all. I spend two nights here and I felt it was enough but I could have easily spent 4 days if I was doing more diving.

Things to do:

1. Sardine run. It amazes me how this is right off the beach, literally a few feet away from the shore. It is almost a guaranteed to see them daily, its better in the morning. Millions of sardines gather off the shore of Panagsama Beach all year around. It’s completely ethical – they are not fed by humans and are marine protected. You don’t have to dive either to see them, just rent a snorkel and head out a few feet from the shore. As the are filter feeders, they stay close to the water so only a snorkel needed.

2. Diving. The diving in Moalboal is some of the best in The Philippines. The dive spots around Pescador Island and the steep walls along the coast have some of the best coral reefs I’ve ever seen. It’s a popular spot for turtles. It’s nearly a given you will see at least one or two around the diving sights in Moalboal. I dived with Savedra Dive school. They were excellent. A one tank fun dive costs 1,100 peso/ €20.

3. Visit Gatorade waterfalls. The Kawasan Falls are the most photographed and famous waterfalls in The Philippines. But with that brings the crowds. Click here to find out how to visit the Kawasan Falls without a guide and how to have the place to yourself. It can be visited form anywhere in Cebu but it is closest to Moalboal, only a 30 minute scooter ride away from the town. There are a few other waterfalls, albeit less impressive but worth visiting within driving distance from The Kawasan Falls. Hire a scooter for the day (300 pesos) and head off early exploring.

The Aguinid Falls is about another 30 minute drive on from the Kawasan Falls. It is near to Oslob than Moalboal but easy to get to from the Kawasan Falls.

The entrance fee is 60 pesos, parking is free and take a tip of about 200 peso for your guide. There are locals there offering to be your guide. Definitely go with one to find out the spot to jump off. The guides will take your photo as well and hang onto your dry bag while you

4. Go canyoneering. A popular spot to go canyoneering is at the Kawasan Falls. You can either go with a tour group that provides transport, local guide, safety equipment, lunch, a local guide and entrance fees. The tours cost between 1500-2000 pesos. The only downside to going with a group is you will finish up at the Kawasan Falls last and it will be full of orange bobbing life vests and red helmets. If you aren’t fussy on that instagram shot, this is a good option and usually picks up from about 8.30-9 am and finishes at 3pm.

Alternatively, you can hire your own guide when you get to the falls, go at your own pace and avoid the crowds. Although for solo travelers going with a group might be more fun. Click here to read about canyoneering at the Kawasan Falls without a tour group.

5. Beaches. Panagsama Beach is the beach along the dive and restaurant strip. As beaches go, its not the most impressive my any means so if you are a beach lover and are in search of white sand and clear water, either walk down or hire a scooter and drive down to White Beach. It is about 5 km from Panagsama Beach.

Where to eat:

• Shaka. This is one of the three Shaka cafes in The Philippines. They take smoothie bowls to the next level and do the best coffee I had whilst in the Philippines. They serve excellent vegan baked treats like banana bread, brownies and power balls.

• Smooth cafe. Another smoothie bowl establishment but all round winner for dinner, lunch, baked goods, breakfasts and coffee. They’re falafel wraps and veggie burgers are to die for.

Where to stay

• Smooth Hostel and Cafe. This cafe doubles as a hostel too. They are currently under going renovations and expanding (Nov 2019) but have one dorm room behind the cafe. The dorm is en suite, has big lockers, privacy curtains and AC. It includes an excellent breakfast and is €14 a night. The location is perfect, a few minute walk from the beach and in the heart of all the bars, dive shops and restaurants.
• MoHo Hostel. A new hostel too but a bit further away from the main beach strip but modern and they have deluxe dorms that a bit nicer with privacy curtains and AC. Breakfast is included and they have an hour of free drinks from 7-8 pm every night at the bar. A dorm room in a standard dorm is €9 a night.

Oslob

Oslob is a small town on the south east coast of Cebu. It is a stop off spot for hoards of tourists to swim with whale sharks. Other than that, there isn’t a whole pile to do in Oslob so a night or two would be enough.

Getting there

From Cebu: There is a direct bus from Cebu Southern Bus terminal to Oslob. It takes about 3 hours.

From Moalboal: It is very easy to get to Oslob from Moalboal. You can either hire a taxi or take the bus. I opted for the budget friendly option and got the bus. Take a trike from Moalboal beach area to the main road where the buses pick up. From here, take the bus to Bato (85 peso, 1 hour) and from Bato, take the bus to Oslob (23 peso, 30 mins).

From Siquijor: There is a ferry from Larena port in Siquijor once daily to Liloan port in south Cebu departing at 5pm. There are buses every 30 minutes from Liloan towards Cebu, passing through Oslob. The bus from Liloan to Oslob takes 20 minutes and costs 23 peso. Getting to Siquijor is very easy from Oslob. Take the bus to Liloan port from Oslob (23 peso, leaves every 30 minutes) and catch the one ferry that departs daily from Liloan to Larena at 10am. The ferry costs 200 peso and takes 2.5 hours. Keep 10 peso for a ferry tax.  

Things to do

Swim with whale sharks: Oslob is known mainly for being able to swim with whale sharks. This activity is a bit of an ethical dilemma. After doing it I don’t think I would do it again, but they are absolutely incredible creatures and amazing to see. I felt to privileged to be able to see them up close. The cost of swimming with them for 20 minutes is 1100 peso. It was arranged through our hostel and we were the first people out at 5 am in the boats to be let into the water.

Whale sharks. An ethical dilemma?

The issue here is the hoards of tourists being thrown into the water and the whale sharks being fed daily to attract them for us to see.

I hear things have improved in recent years and there is a safety briefly prior to being allowed to snorkel with the whale sharks. There is a maximum of 10 people in each boat and the captain of the boat watches the tourists carefully. The whale shark is led up and down the line guided by the plankton it is being fed. It is never in a net it comes and goes at its own will. It is far from perfect but the counter argument is it is a positive transition from killing the whale sharks. Due to the whale sharks being fed, they never leave and this changes their migration patterns. At the end of the day they are wild animals and it’s not natural for them to be fed day in day out and truck loads of tourist being thrown in with them. At the briefing we were told touching the whale sharks was a criminal offence and would result in large fines or jail time. I do believe people try to respect this as much as possible but you get some people flapping around with life jackets on who can’t swim and I’m sure they occasionally come into contact with the whale sharks. It is far from being considered eco friendly or marine conservation but studies are being done on the breeding and migration patterns in Oslob of these magnificent mammals.

• Visit Tumalog Falls. This is one of the most impressive waterfalls on Cebu. It is a huge cascading waterfall with turquoise pools at the bottom to swim in. The falls were only found in 2012 so tourism here is fairly recent but the locals are very friendly and there are plenty of guys on scooters offering a taxi up the hill to the waterfall. Its open from 6 am-5 pm and entrance is 20 peso.

Where to stay:

• Sharkey’s hostel is the only place I’d recommend to stay, especially if you do decide to visit the whale sharks. The hostel is a bit grim but meters from the bus stop and they have you into the water first for the whale shark snorkeling. A dorm room is €8 a night.

Siquijor

Siquijor is a tiny island to the south of Cebu and to the south west of Bohol. It was one of my favourite islands in the Philippines. Tourism is increasing here but its a lot more untouched and rural compared to the other islands I visited. Tourism is in its infancy yet you can see that is quickly beginning to change with the number of guesthouses and restaurants popping up. Amoungst Filipinos, Siquijor is known for its mysterious witchcraft and healer who brew traditional ointments for modern illnesses. The island is really easy to get around and cover in a day or two. You can drive around the circumference of the island in just over an hour.

Getting there

From Cebu: From Liloan port in the southern tip of Cebu a ferry runs once a day to Siquijor at 10 am. It arrives into the Larena port on the island and takes about 2.5 hours. The ferry heading to Liloan returns at 5 pm from Larena.

From Bohol: There are several ferry departures from Tagbilran to Larena. There is a slow and fast ferry. The fast boat departs from Tagilaran to Larena, Siquijor at 10.20 am daily. It takes 1.5 hours and costs 891 peso. The fast ferry departs Larena, Siquijor at 12:30 pm. The slow ferry takes 3 hours but only costs 300 peso. However it only runs on certain days of the week.

• Tagbilran to Larena: Mon, Wed & Sat departing at 8 pm.
• Larena to Tagbilran: Tue, Thu & Sun departing at 7 pm.

From Dumaguee city: You can fly to Dumaguete airport from Manila, from Dumaguete airport take a trike to the port and catch a ferry to Siquijor port. There are fast and normal speed ferries starting from 5.45 am and finishing at 7 pm daily. The fast ferry costs 160 pesos and takes an hour and the slow ferry takes double the time and costs 115 peso.

Hire a scooter at the port. It is the easiest and cheapest way to get around. I left my big bag with the guy I hired a scooter from. I hired the scooter for two days and used that as my transport to get to and from the port. The pot is a 30 minute drive from San Juan, the main tourist hub with hostels, restaurants, beaches and shops. A scooter is pretty much the only way to get around to see the sights unless you hire a driver. The roads are long and straight and very easy to drive on here. I hired a scooter for 300 pesos a day here.

Things to do

• Visit the three waterfalls of Siquijor.

1. Cambugahay falls. These waterfalls were the most impressive of all in the Philippines for me. It is famous for its tiered levels and its lush rain forest surroundings. Located in Lazi, its about a 35 minute drive on a scooter from San Juan. Entrance and parking are 20 pesos. A local guide will offer to take you down or more so insist he comes with you. Let him bring you down, he will take your photos and show you the best spots to jump in from. Have a tip of 100 pesos for him. There are two sets of rope swings you can challenge your inner Tarzan from at a fee of 50 peso which allows you have as many rope swings as you want. The falls are less than a 5 minute walk down muddy steps to the large turquoise swimming hole. I went just before it was due to close at 5 pm and had the place to myself. It’s best to go before 8 am to beat the crowds or at 4.30 pm after everyone has left.

2. Lagaan Falls. Swimming holes, rope swings, rock jumps and small caves are just some of the things you will find here. Also located in Lazi, its a 15 minute drive from Cambugahay Falls and 30 minutes from San Juan. Entrance is 30 pesos and parking is free. Again the guides will offer to take you down, the trial is clearly marked so you don’t need one but the lads are usually good company and it is their main way of making an income.

3. Lugnason Falls. A.K.A. Zodiac Falls with it’s vibrant blue water, cliff jumping and cold springs! Its in San Juan and only a 15 minute drive from the town and its free to enter. It takes about 15 minutes to walk along the dirt track through the forest to reach the falls. The water falling from the 5 m high waterfall reminded me of that at the Kawasan falls.

• Dip your feet at the old enchanter Balete tree. The Balete tree has a magical and mystical background. The tree is 400 years old and is often used for sacred rituals. Dip your feet in the fishpond at the base of the tree and let them eat the dead skin off your feet.

• Enjoy the beaches. Saladoong beach is known as the best beach and is a favourite by the locals because of its pristine water and cliff jumps. There are two planks you can cliff dive off- a 7 m and a 10 m straight into the water. The views are pretty great from here too.

• Watch the sunset. My new appreciation for sunsets only grew whilst in the Philippines. Some of the best sunsets were from a deserted beach in San Juan. Grab a beer and watch the sun sink into the sea.

• Diving. The diving off Siquijor is well renowned and known as some of the bets in South East Asia, especially around Apo Island. A lot of the dive centers off day trips to Apo Island and you can choose from a snorkeling or diving option.

• Take a day trip to Apo island. As I mentioned previously, Apo Island day trips are popular for divers but also for snorkelers. This was one of the highlights for me during my 3 weeks in the Philippines. It was organised through my hostel but you can book directly with Oceanlife Explorers. It is a full day trip starting at 8 am and returning back at 4 pm. For 1000 peso we got transports on a boat to and from the island, snorkeling equipment, a guide, snacks and lunch. The tour was very snorkel heavy for those not diving but if you wanted to sit any of the snorkels out, you can lie up on the boat. Apo Island was declared a marine sanctuary so the coral reefs are cared for and home to hundreds of turtles. Turtle sightings are a guarantee here. For any turtle lovers, this day trip is a must. We were so lucky and spotted a pod of dolphins swimming along side the boat on the way back.

Where to stay

• JJs Backpackers: Good location in San Juan just an 8-minute walk from Solangon Beach. It has a restaurant and outdoor terrace area good for socialising. A dorm room is €10 and a single room with shared bathroom is €12. Breakfast isn’t included but can be added for €4.

• Monkey business: This busy bar/ restaurant is teaming with people at all times of the day. The food is excellent here and there is always a bit of atmosphere. Most nights of the week they have live music. The rooms are bungalows, they only have 4 of them so they book up in advance. The bungalows have AC, balcony and attached bathroom. The bungalows are €50 per night.

• Coco Grove Beach Resort: This is the most luxurious option on the island. The resort has a gym, three pools, a restaurant, free yoga, a spa and is 800 m from the white sandy beach. They have a diving school there too and arrange island hopping tours and day trip to Apo island. If you’re looking for something a bit nicer and have the budget it’s well worth it. Rooms start at €71.19 (4,200 peso).

• Love Shack: Nice new hostel with breakfast included. Not as social as some of the other hostels along the main road. It is in San Juan near the beach and 500 m from the main road. A big plus here is the dorm rooms have AC. A dorm bed is €9. The staff are super helpful booking trips.

Where to eat

• Tomato and basil: Pizzeria with vegan options.
• Portside cafe: Beside the port in Larena, good Filipino food and big portions but a bit greasy.
• Dolce and amour. Nice Italian restaurant in a more up market resort.
• Dagus: Opposite Monkey Business in San Juan, it’s not the cheapest but amazing food, plenty of veggie options and love music going on most evenings. Western menu and vegetarian menu. ON a Thursday night they do unlimited cocktails for 995 pesos (€18).
• Monkey business: slightly cheaper and more casual than Dagus across from it, good cocktails and atmosphere. Serves food all day and has a good western menu.

Bohol

The tenth biggest island in the Philippines, Bohol island, is located in the middle of the archipelago. When I thought of the Philippines, I envisaged just paradisiac beaches, palm trees and turquoise lagoons. While there is a lot of that too, Bohol is the perfect example of other things the Philippines has to offer such as lush green forests, hidden waterfalls and rolling chocolate hills.

Panglao is one of the most stunning of the Bohol islands and is connected to the mainland by a bridge. Most tourists opt to stay on Panglao island, typically near Alona beach. Here you have an abundance of tour agents, shops, hotels, hostels, restaurants, and a strip of bars along the beach basically in the sand. If you only have a few days on Bohol I would recommend staying in Alona and hire a scooter to explore the main island.

The beaches on Pangloa have white sand, crystal clear water, U shaped palm trees and breathtaking sunsets that are hard to beat. If you are coming to Bohol from Cebu or Siquijor by boat, the ferry terminal is located on Pangloa.

Getting there

By air: Flights depart from Cebu city and Manila to Tagbilaran City, the Bohol Airport.

• By Boat:
  • From Siquijor there are two option, a slow and fast ferry. The fast ferry departs Larena, Siquijor at 12:30 pm daily and arrives in Tagbilaran at 2 pm and costs 891 peso. The slow ferry takes 3 hours but only costs 300 peso. However it only runs on certain days of the week. Larena to Tagbilran: Tue, Thu & Sun departing at 7 pm. It arrives late into Bohol so have accommodation booked in advance. There are plenty of trikes waiting to take you to your accommodation. A trike to Alona beach should not cost more than 350 peso.
  • From Cebu: Ocean Jet has services about once every hour from 6 am to 6:30 pm, every day. The trip takes about 2 hours. This is by far the easiest and cheapest way of reaching Bohol from Cebu or vice versa.

Getting Around

The easiest and cheapest way to get around is to hire a scooter. There are not many buses around the island and if you hire a scooter, you are free to explore the island at your leisure. Beware though, Bohol is a much bigger island than it looks on the map and travel time around the main island can be hours between places. Scooter hire for the day is around 300 peso. If you are hiring a scooter for a few days you will be able to do a deal and negotiate a lower price.

Things to do

1. The Chocolate Hills. 1700 symmetrical rolling hills located on the main island of Bohol are one of the main attractions of Bohol. The hills are spread across an area of 50 square km. During the dry season the green hills turn brown and thus got their name- the chocolate hills. You can get here by scooter or there are plenty of tours going here daily which also include a visit to the tarsiar sanctuary. I hired a scooter and drove over 2 hours in the torrential rain with a girl I had just met on the back. My nerves were shot between not being able to see, it being my second time ever driving a scooter and the responsibility of carrying someone on the back. Its a long ride (2 hours each way) on a scooter from Alona beach so if you aren’t confident on a scooter, I’d advise to book on a tour that takes you there by bus. The Chocolate Hills themselves are free to visit.

2. Tariser sanctuary. Not far from the chocolate hills on the main island of Bohol is a Tariser sanctuary, the Philippine Tarsier Foundation. Here you can see these tiny primates in their natural environment. These creatures are incredibly shy and have nocturnal habits so most likely you will see them sleeping, hidden in the trees. They are so nervous and easily stressed, so much so the stress can cause them to hit their heads off objects and commit suicide. Flash photography and loud voices are stressers for the tariser so must be extremely quiet.

• Relax on the beach. Some of the nicest beaches in the Philippines are on Panglao island. The waters are crystal clear and sunsets are hard to beat. Alona beach, White beach and Dumaluan beaches are the ones most worth checking out.

• Swim in the Hinagdanan cave. The most popular of the caves on Bohol island is located on Panglao. The cave has an array of stalactites and stalagmites and leads to an underground spring pool where visitors can take a dip in the icy cold fresh water.

• Explore Bohols waterfalls. There are plenty of hidden waterfalls on Bohol. I checked out the Camugao waterfall. You need a scooter to reach it and it is a 10 minute drive off the main road up a bumpy track. When you park you pay an entrance of 40 peso an then start the 10 minute walk down to the waterfall through the forest. The waterfall is fairly quiet, there were only a few locals swimming when I got there.

Where to stay

• Moon Foals hostel. The hostel has some weird rules and strict on no shoes in the hostel but very clean, social, good free breakfast, excellent location a few minutes walk from Alona beach and it has free cocktails and snacks to get everyone to mingle in the common area from 6-6.30 pm daily. They also organised tours and motorbike rental is available. The dorms have AC and privacy curtains and cost €11 a night.

Where to eat

• Shaka. One of my favourite places in the Philippines for a smoothie bowl and recently they have just opened their Bohol location which serves savory food as well as banging smoothie bowls, treats and coffee. Their veggie burgers are incredible.

• The Buzzz Cafe. Located on Alona beach, this cafe has a restaurant upstairs serving vegan and veggie friendly healthy afford able food catering for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is also the retail location Vicky Wallace’s Bohol Bee Farm.

Siargao

Possibly my favourite place on earth, definitely my favourite place in the Philippines. Siargao stole my heart and somewhere I am most definitely going back to. I think ones experience of a place really comes down to the people they meet there and the experiences they had with those people. I met some friends for life in Siargao. It is the time of place that engulfs you, sucks you in and you get very content with the relaxed way of life there. The food and beaches are hard to beat here. You will find you’ve planned to stay a few days here and three weeks later, you haven’t been able to leave.

The tear drop shaped island to the east of Cebu is a surfers paradise. It’s one of the Philippines best kept secrets where you typically see more locals than tourist (but not for long) and is known as the surfers capital. The island is surrounded by turquoise waters, white sandy secluded beaches, world class surf breaks and is almost entirely covered in palm trees. There are plenty of things to do even if you’re not a surfer but if you’re keen to learn or give it a try, its the perfect place.

Getting there

The only way to access the island would be to fly. Thankfully the airport is teeny tiny and quick to get through. Flights service Siargao’s Sayak Airport from Cebu and Manila. The airport is about a 30 minute drive from General Luna/ Cloud Nine surf break (the area visitors stay with all the shops, restaurants, bars and accommodation).

Where to stay

• Mad monkeys: Renowned as a party hostel, Mad Monkeys can be as mad or as chill as you like but doesn’t get it’s reputation from nowhere. It is a great place though as solo traveler to meet people. It has a pool, a bar and restaurant serving decent food that everyone hangs out in. There are daily excursions and evenings activities themes. The dorms have AC, privacy curtains, light and sockets by the bed. Its slightly removed from the main shop and restaurant area, a 40 minute walk down or a 5 min trike.

Things to do

• Visit the Sugba lagoon. One of the most popular day trips from Siargao is the Sugba Lagoon. Trips can be arranged from General Luna by agents for about 1500 peso (€27) or you can do a DIY day trip for less than 800 pesos if there is a group of you. The Subga Lagoon is a half an hour boat ride from Del Carmen. Hire a scooter for the day and drive to Del Carmen. From here you can hire a boat (1600 peso/ €30) and pay the entrance fee of 50 pesos (€0.90). The beauty of doing a DIY tour is you can come and go at your leisure however if you are on your own and don’t manage to get a group going from a hostel, it is cheaper to go with a tour.

What you will find here is a stunning blue lagoon surround by tall tress and soaring mountains. Spend the day diving off the diving board and getting involved with activities such as SUP. You can rent paddle boards for 200 peso. The photos just don’t do it justice!

• Rent a boat and go island hopping. Siargao is surrounded by the most stunning islands you could ever imagine. They are better than the instagram photos you see of white sandy paradise beaches, water so clear you would nearly drink and palm trees. Three of the most famous islands that you should visit are Gayum island, Naked island, and Daku island. They are only a short boat ride from each other, and from General Luna. Naked Island is the island we visited in the middle just for a short while as it is literally just a sand bar, hence the name. You can go on a tour organised by an agent in General Luna or just go down to the harbour and hire a boat. We hired a boat and driver for the day for 1500 peso so it was only 300 peso each between 5 of us. I prefer this option as we could come and go as we please. Bring drinks and food as the islands are totally deserted.

• Swim in the Magpupungko rock pools. The rock pools are so unique they will blow you away, or the waves will literally sweep you away. The rock pools can be be seen during low tide so ensure you look up the tides before heading off. They are about an hour drive on a scooter from General Luna. The shimmering and clear coral blue waters looks heavenly. There is a lovely beach here to chill out on for the day and some cliffs to do some cliff jumping for those seeking an adrenaline rush.

• Relax or catch some waves on Pacifico Beach. This is one of the prettiest beaches on the main island with some incredible swells for surfing. It’s much quieter and more relaxed than the beaches around General Luna so if you’re looking to get off the main tourist trial, this is the spot. There are some amazing cafes here too, one of my favourite is Common Ground.

• Learn to surf. There is a reason Siargao is known as the surfing capital of the Philippines. Whatever your surfing level, there is something for everyone from neat barrels at Cloud Nine surf break to more beginner breaks at Jacking Horse. Surf lessons are so cheap here too. At the Cloud 9 board walk there are plenty of locals asking if you want a surf lesson. There are plenty of surf camps too.

• Enjoy all the food. Siargao has the most incredible food I’ve had anywhere, never mind in the Philippines. The Philippines isn’t a country renowned for its cuisine but Siargao has some amazing places to eat and is vegan paradise. Check out where to eat in Siargoa here.
• Visit Taktak Waterfall. Found in the north of Siargao in Santa Monica, this waterfall is an hour and 20 minute drive from General Luna. It is the only waterfall on Siargao so it’s worth a visit. It’s lovely and quiet here as not many venture up this far north. There are plenty of cliffs and trees to jump off too.

• Watch the sunset on Cloud 9 boardwalk. The long wooden pier that stretches out across the reef is an iconic symbol of Siargao. At the end of the boardwalk is a viewing platform that overlooks the popular surfing spot and the white sandy beach dotted with palm trees. You can rent a surf board here for 200 peso for an hour or 500 peso for the day.

• Party all night. The night life is great on Siargoa. Each evening there is a go to bar or event on so check out the list of events on http://www.siargaoexperts.com/nightlife/. Rum bar is always a good shout and has people dancing on the tables and spilling onto the street outside.
• Zone out at a yoga class. Lotus Shores run yoga classes daily in their gardens. The classes are so relaxing and the setting is beautiful off the main road to General Luna away from the noise and bustle. You can buy a pass or just pay as you go. They run yoga retreats and have a lovely vegan restaurant onsite.

Where to eat

Siargao is veggie and vegan heaven. It has an abundance of incredible places to eat and you will never be short of vegan friendly places, unlike the rest of the Philippines where it can be tricky to find a good healthy feed. Check out the best places to eat in Siargao here.

Palawan

Palawan was voted the most beautiful island in the world and I think I have to agree with this. It is a slice of heaven with clear aqua marine water, hidden lagoons, limestone cliffs and coral reefs teaming with vibrant marine life. It looks like something out of travel magazine and hard to believe some of the spots here are actually real. The main areas in Palawan tourists visit are El Nido, Coron and Port Barton. I didn’t get to Port Barton but it is less visited and popping up more regularly on travellers radars.

El Nido

El Nido is one of the tourist hotspots and the most popular tourist destination of the Philippines. It is a cluster of islands off the northern tip of Palawan. El Nido is famed for blue lagoons surrounded by dramatic rock formations. One of the main things to do from El Nido is boat trips and diving. Between 3-4 days is enough time to see the best of El Nido.

Getting there:

• Air: The quickest way of getting to El Nido is by flying from Manila, Cebu or Coron.
• Bus: A cheaper way can be to fly to Puerto Princessa in Palawan and get a bus from here to El Nido. The bus will be a mini van stuffed with as many people as they can. There was technically seats for everyone, if everyone was 4’8 and 45kg dripping wet. The 6’4 tall, 100 kg German boys had a tough time over the 6 hour journey.
• Boat: Between Coron and El Nido the ferry is the cheapest way of getting between the two islands. Make sure to book online the day you arrive as they book out in advance and if a ferry has been cancelled in the days previous, those tickets will be honoured the following days and mean you might get off El Nido when you have planned.
• Expedition cruise. If you have the time and the budget, this was one of the best things I did in The Philippines. There are between 3 to 5 day options to travel between Coron and El Nido.
  • This is the most unique way to travel between the islands, camping on untouched locations each night. These cruises give you the chance to explore hidden lagoons that day tours can’t access, stay on private deserted islands, eat incredible food and meet the locals living on next to nothing so far removed from civilisation. It was an unforgettable experience.
  • I recommend going with El Nido Paradise. The cruises includes all your meals, water, rum & coke or gin, snorkel equipment, tents & bedding and amazing scenery. Prices vary based on dates and length of the expedition cruise. The other popular company is the Tao Experience. I’ve only heard good things about Tao however they don’t provide your alcohol and it’s slightly more expensive. Click here to read the complete guide to the 3 day expedition with El Nido Paradise.

Things to do:

• Kayaking. Grab kayaks and prepare yourself for some stunning views. The Bacuit Bay is the most popular spot for kayaking and you will want to hit three incredible spots on your adventure:
  • Small lagoon

• Big lagoon

• Miniloc Island

•  El Nido Island hopping tours. A protected area called Bacuit Bay hosting 45 paradise islands has been named one of the most beautiful destinations in the entire world. Tour A, B, C & D are all visiting different islands and all tours are stunning. The tours consist of lots of snorkelling, beautiful lagoons, wildlife and post card perfect islands.

Where to eat:

• Trattoria Altrove: If you are on a hunt for the best pizza in Palawan, look no further. There is always a queue for this place and when the see and taste the pizzas, it’s no wonder why. They do pasta too so not only pizzas.

• Taste A.K.A The Vegan Cafe. Taste is a 100% plant-based restaurant which serves yummy smoothie bowls, juices and other kinds of vegan food and with great vibes an ideal place to work on your laptop. The serve great coffee here too and are open early so you can get a decent healthy breakfast before embarking on any day trips.

Where to stay:

Frendz Hostel. This is one of the best hostels I stayed at in the Philippines. It right in the centre of the town, has a massive bar/ restaurant area down stairs, a rooftop bar and pool and is really social. It’s a bit more expensive than your average hostel for a dorm room ( 1080 peso/ E20) but worth it especially if you’re travelling alone.

Outpost Beach Hostel. Another excellent option in El Nido for a social atmosphere. It’s located on Sunset Beach, a ten minute bike ride from El Nido town. The onsite restaurant serves food all day and they do bbq every Sunday. The organise tours from the hostel, provide towels for free and have dorms and privates from 1100 peso/ €21.

Coron

Coron is considered the smaller, quieter and cleaner version of El Nido. It is in the north of Palawan either a quick flight or ferry from El Nido and just like it’s neighbour, Coron is full of wonderful lagoons, hidden beaches with sand like baby powder, colourful underwater life and views that make you question reality.

It had hit the traveler radar more recent than El Nido so it is a little behind in terms of tourism and this can be seen in the town that was once a sleepy fishing town. This means Coron is slightly less expensive, less crowded and less spoilt than the other island areas. Coron is famous for diving and in particular wreck diving. It’s one of the best places in the world to explore the well preserved Second World War wrecks.

Getting there and away

• By air: The tiny airport in Coron is about a 30 minute drive from the main town. Regular flights to and from Manila, El Nido and Cebu service Coron airport. Flights are regularly delayed and there is no wifi in the airport so be prepared to wait around and have a good book with you.
• By boat: Traveling between Coron and El Nido by ferry is the cheapest way and traveling between the two islands. Book a few days in advance though as the ferries book up early!
• Overnight ferry:
  • To/ from Manila: Go Travel is the only ferry company that has a direct route from Manila to Coron. Board the vessel on the North Harbor Pier 4 in Tondo, Manila. Traffic in this part of the city can be crazy so allow an extra hour to get to the ferry port. The overnight ferry takes 11 hours and is not the fastest way to travel but is definitely the cheapest. You will be assigned a bunk bed for the whole duration. You will arrive into Coron port, a 10 minute drive from the main town.
  • Ticket options: Super class, most basic, no AC: 2,300 PHP.
    • Mega value: AC and only a tiny bit more: 2,400 PHP.
    •  Tourist class: more privacy with the dividers: 2,500 PHP.
    • Cabin: Good for 4 people: 2,900 PHP.
  • Manila to Coron: Departs every Friday at 7pm, arrives at 6am.
  • Coron to Manila: Departs every Sunday at 8pm, arrives at 7am.

• Multi-way cruise/ expedition: This is the best way of seeing all Palawan has to offer by taking your time and taking one of the multi-way cruises (between 3 to 5 options) to enjoy untouched beaches, meet local families and camp on deserted islands that very few people ever get to visit. Check out my post on the El Nido Paradise three day expedition here for more information.

Things to do

• Diving. Coron is famous for having some of the best preserved wrecks in the world. They were left in the aftermath of WWII after a squad of US bombers located the Japanese supply fleet and blew it apart. As a result there are wrecks that lie within recreational diving limits, many of which are covered with coral growth. Aside from wreck diving there is amazing lakes and colourful lively coral reefs to diving in.

• Island tours. Most of the most see things and top attractions in Coron are actually off the main island and require a boat to reach. There are several tour agents organising different tours for the day, the most popular being The Ultimate tour. These can be expensive if you’re on a backpacker budget and means you don’t get to come and go from the locations at your leisure. We hired a boat from the port and picked the locations we wanted to visit. Each location has an entrance fee and then the boat hire fee so it adds up quickly but if you have more than 4 people it works out cheaper. You can buy fresh food from the market by the port and your boat driver will cook you lunch on the boat!

• Twin Lagoon. The Twin Lagoon is a stunning turquoise lagoon surrounded on all sides by dynamic karst landscape. The water glistens and changes colour as the sun shines on it changing the water from navy to emerald. It is one of the most popular spots on the island hopping tours. To reach the hidden lagoon on the other side, there is a cave in the water to cross either by ladder or by swimming through the cave. The hidden lagoon is breath takingly beautiful with even clearer water surrounded by tall limestone cliffs.

Banol beach. On our island hopping tour we stopped at Banol beach for our last stop. A lot of the tours come here for lunch so we missed the crowds by coming after lunch. The beach itself isn’t huge but the water is so clear, there’s plenty of shelter to hide from the scorching sun and the sand is like talcum powder. It is one of the top beaches in Coron.

Coron Bay view point: A 15 minute boat trip across from Coron Port you will find the most magnificent lagoon where the water is so clear it looks like the boats are suspended in the air. The dramatic karst rocks surround the bay and tree-studded rocks tower above the bay. The view from the top of the 300 odd steps is breath taking and arguably one of the most beautiful views in The Philippines. There will be hoards of tourists in orange life vests though jostling for a stop to take there picture on the instagram spot so go early or late afternoon to avoid the crowds.

• Lake Kayangan. Behind Coron Bay, up and over the steps lies Lake Kayangan . Imagine a lake in the middle of a forrest surrounded by tall rock formations, that is what Lake Kayangan is like. The lake is shallow to begin with rocks you can climb into to wade your way in and then it suddenly drops off into a deeper swimming pool. The lake is 70% freshwater and 30% salt water. The beauty of the lake is somewhat spoilt by hundreds of tourists in bobbing orange vests (life jackets are compulsory) so get there early or later in the afternoon to see this natural beauty unspoilt.

• Hike Mt Tapyas for sunset: The second tallest mountain in Coron is a must climb when here. The Hollywood-esque CORON sign and huge cross can be seen for miles around the island. The mountain isn’t too high and climbing it takes about 20-30 minutes. The 723 steps couples with the humidity will have you sweating. The views from here of the port below and the sun dipping down behind the hills is unrivalled anywhere else on the island. Head up an hour before sunset to watch the sky changing and savour the views.

• Baracuda lake. A famous lagoon tucked away enclosed by limestone cliffs located about a 20 minute boat drive away from Coron. It is strangely warm and only gets warmer as you descend. The water temperature is between 28 degrees at the surface and gets to 38 degrees at the bottom. It is 14m deep and the sand is like a jelly substance at the bottom. Its a favourite for divers due to the novelty of it but you can also snorkel here and experience this natural wonder with its impossibly clear water made of a mixture of fresh and salt water.

Where to stay

Hop hostel. The only hostel I would recommend staying at in Coron. It’s extremely popular so you need to book at least a week in advance to secure the date you want. It is the nicest hostel I’ve every stayed at and I’ve stayed in a lot of hostels! Most of the beds in the dorms are king sized beds, the size of my bedroom now with four thick fluffy pillows and hotel like sheets. All the dorms are ensuite with AC, plug sockets and read lamps by the beds and privacy curtains the whole way around. I had the best sleep of my year on the road in these beds. The hostel is slightly up on the hill giving incredible views of Coron on the roof top terrace. The onset restaurant serves great food all day and they do a free small dinner for guests on the rooftop every evenings. They organise daily tours and night time events, have gym equipment if you want a sweaty work out and a Netflix room for chilling. Dorms are slightly more expensive than your average at €14 but totally worth it.

Where to eat

• Falafel 4.13. Great priced falafel wraps and salads but only down side is all the food is served in single use plastic, even if you’re sitting in.

• Kulay bowls. This place just opened the day I arrived to Coron so the restaurant was a bit disorganised and just setting up but the food here was great. They have healthy salad bowls for vegans and non vegans at a reasonable price.

• Summer cafe and bar. One of the few places to do a matcha latte in Coron. They have delicious smoothie bowls, cakes, salads and sandwiches.

• Full lotus. A little vegan cafe upstairs over looking the main road into the town in Coron serving smoothie bowls, soups, sandwiches, curries and salads. Their baked good are amazing too.

• Levines eatery. The food is so cheap here and so good. The choice is vast and so much for vegans and veggies too. The open for breakfast at 7 am until dinner. The view is the real treasure here at the top. They do lunch and daily specials meaning you can get a main dish for under €2.

That’s a wrap on the most beautiful country I seen so far on my travels. I hope this is helpful to anyone planning a trip to this special country.

Sari x