Western Australia Ultimate Road Trip

Western Australia is an enormous land mass, bigger than any European country and if it was its own country, it would be the 10th largest in the world. 

The sheer size of the state and long stretches without anything at all except desert for hundreds of miles, may put some travellers off visiting it. But don’t let the mammoth drives discourage you from visiting this beautiful area as you will be handsomely rewarded with beautiful vineyards and artisan food down south, pristine beaches with no-one in sight for miles along WA’s 12,500 km of coastline, red desert meeting the glistening blue sea, unforgettable sunsets, gorges and waterfalls in the National Parks and an abundance of marine life in the Indian Ocean. 

WA has a carefree spirit about it that’s free from the baggage and busyness of the east coast. It is also rich in Aboriginal culture that is far more apparent than any other part of Australia. 

You could spend months travelling up the coast and inland to explore the outback but we managed to fit what are considered the highlights of WA into a month long trip. The best way of seeing all WA has to offer in a time and cost effective way to hire a camper van and hug the coastline on the way up (or down) and cut through the middle to explore the national parks on the way back (or vice versa). 

When to go?

• Feb-Apr: Still very hot but schools have gone back, less crowds and wine harvest approaches. Late March- August is whale shark season in Ningaloo. Beware of Easter holidays, campsites book out, beaches are busier and tours are full. 

• Jun-Aug: Colder down south as its the middle of winter and higher rainfall. Peak season up north as days are dry with low humidity. Flies aren’t so bad, it is still warm but manageable. 

• Sep- Nov: Whales migration is in full swing as they come back down along the coast with their calfs in tow and wildflowers bloom. 

1 month in Western Australia:

The driving distances are enormous the further north you get so brace yourself for some long car journeys with plenty of snacks and a good playlist. The other option would be to do the trip one way, and fly out of either Perth or Broome but camper van rental companies charge an arm and a leg in relocation fees and flights in and out of Broome seem to be more expensive than Perth. 

Considering this, we opted to suck up the long 23 hour drive back and explore one of WA’s best national parks which is an 8 hour drive detour from the coast or kind of on the way if you cut through the middle, which is slightly quicker. 

Perth

We arrived back in Perth after almost a month on the road dying for a hotel bed, veggie friendly cafes and acai bowls galore, fancy cocktails and a trip to Rottnest but unfortunately COVID 19 put a halt to some of those plans and we did not get to Rottnest, Fremantle to check out the markets and museums or to many of the restaurants we had hoped to. Despite arriving in Perth on the eve of a three day snap lockdown, we managed to still see a lot of Perth in the guises of running gear, eat copious amounts of take away brunches and get in the highlight meal of the trip before the city entered lockdown at midnight.

Perth is known as the most remote city of its size in the world but the word liveable came to mind when describing it. Superbe beaches, rolling parks, global eats and a thriving bar scene which seems to be under a near permanent canopy of blue skies. There is plenty to do here and the beaches and weather lend themselves to an outdoor lifestyle.

Things to do

• Perth Mint: The mint displays a collection of coins, nuggets and gold bars dating back as far as 1899. You can mint your own coins and watch gold pour. It is home to the Guinness World record holding 1 tonne gold coin, worth a whopping 60 million dollars. Open 9am-5pm daily, $19/8 entry for adult/child.

• Kings Park: A beautiful 400 hectare park perfect for picnicking at sunset or strolling around, the park is smack in the middle of the city and boasts incredible views of the city.

• Fremantle Markets: These colourful vibrant markets reopened in 1975 after they were first established in 1897. There is a good selection of souvenirs, fresh produce, an excellent food court and art from young designers and artists. Open from 8am-8pm on Fridays and 8am-6pm Saturdays and Sundays.

• Fremantle museums: Fremantle is home to some of the best museums in the country.
  • Fremantle Prison: This old victorian era prison dominates the town. Various tours are available to explore the maximum security jail’s past. They also run a Torchlight Tour through the prison which includes a few scares. Book ahead for this tour and the 2.5 hour long Tunnel Tour which ventures into the subterranean tunnels and includes an underground boat tour. Opening hours: 9am-5pm daily. Price: Adult/child $22/12, combined day tours-$32/22, Torchlight Tour $28/18; Tunnel Tour- $65/45.
  • WA Shipwrecks Museum: Thought of as the finest display of maritime archaeology in the Southern Hemisphere, The WA Shipwrecks Museum is home to a selection of the hull of the Dutch Merchant ship Batavia, wrecked in 1629. Opening hours: 9.30am- 5pm. Price: free to enter, suggested donation $5.
  • Western Australian Museum- Maritime- This sail- shaped museum host signifiacant WA boats suspended from the rafters. You can take an hour long tour of the HMAS submarine which was part of the Australian Navy’s fleet from 1969-1997. Tours leave every half hour from 10am- 3.30pm but fill up so book ahead. Opening hours: 9.30-5pm. Price: adult/ child- $15/free for museum, submarine- $15/7.50.

Where to eat

• C Restaurant: Situated high above the city centre, C Restaurant is Perth’s only revolving restaurant offering unrivalled 360 views of the city. Apart from the views, C Restaurant is home to some of Perth’s most talented chefs. The menu is a modern Australian blended with classic techniques. The food’s taste and presentation is exquisite, definitely worth a trip to experience this unique dining experience and to finish off your stay in Perth in style. The restaurant is open daily for lunch, high tea and dinner. From Fri- Sun, they do an early bird discount for two courses with a guaranteed window seat for $160 (normally $222). Quote early bird discount and ring to book this offer.

• Canteen Pizza: This famous pizzeria is located on Cottesloe beach. I had heard about this spot from about 5 different people saying it’s the best pizza in Perth. Grabbing a pizza and a beer to watch the sunset on the beach was on the top recommended things to do from locals. The Neapolitan-style pizzeria has a great selection of wood fired pizzas to dine in or pick up and take to the beach.

• Chutney Mary’s: Traditional Indian located in Subiaco do amazing flavoursome curries with delicious seasonal produce. They offer dine in or take away.

• Little Creatures: Smoothies, acai bowls, coffee and healthy treats served here. They know how to serve a healthy serving of peanut butter too!

• Someday Coffee Co: A cute pink and polka dot cafe serving all day breakfast favourites and lunch options such as chicken burger with a twist and some more indulgent dishes; mango, passionfruit and white chocolate pancakes.

• Canteen Trigg: A modern and laid back beach front restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner options. They have al fresco dining overlooking the Indian Ocean and Trigg beach, serve everything from halloumi salads and poke bowls to caramel slices as thick as door steps. A great shout for lunch by the beach.

• Duck Duck Bruce: One of the best brunch spots in Fremantle serving out of the ordinary breakfast dishes in an airy, homely setting. Get there before the breakfast cut off at 11.30 to indulge in the likes of vanilla pancake stack with almonds and burnt orange curd.

Day trips from Perth

Rockingham/ Penguin Island: Only a 40 minute drive south from Perth city centre lies a unique and special place blessed with white sandy beaches and surrounded by crystal clear waters and lies a five minute ferry ride away or a 700m swim from the mainland. The wildlife is the star attraction here with fairy penguins that are rescued and rehabilitated in the center. Penguin feedings happens three times a day by island rangers: 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm. Getting here is easy with ferries departing hourly from 9am to 3pm and back to the mainland at ten past the hour for $32 which includes the entrance fee to the penguin feeding.

Visit Penguin Island and see the smallest penguins in the world. Exploring the island on foot here takes about an hour on the trails. The beaches are perfect for snorkelling and swimming. Resident sea lions often flake out on the beach by the rocks.

Swim with dolphins: Perth wildlife encounters run snorkelling tours daily to afford visitors the chance to swim with dolphins in the wild from Rockingham. There are over 200 local bottlenose dolphins that live amongst the sheltered waters of Rockingham’s bay. The team do not feed the dolphins to perform tricks, they simply find a pod of dolphins cruising and allow the swimmers to hop in and experience being around them. The groups are kept small (7 max) when entering the water and each group is led by a guide using an aqua scooter to bring you amongst the dolphins. It is a unique and exhilarating experience interacting with these beautiful animals. They also have a no show, come again policy meaning if you don’t get to swim with the dolphins that day, they offer you to come again for free. The cost is $205 if you meet the boat in Rockingham, alternatively they can include a transfer from Perth CBD for $245.

Swan Valley

Swan Valley is WA’s oldest wine region home to over 40 top class wineries, breweries and distilleries and only 30 minutes drive from Perth. The wineries and breweries are spread out in areas but there are also a few that are within walking distance of each other. A few of the best places we visited in Swan Valley was the Margaret River Chocolate Factory, Lancaster Winery, Old Young’s gin and vodka distillery and Bailey Brewery.

Margaret River Chocolate Factory: A winery is open beside the chocolate factory and here they sell and let you taste for free their chocolate liquors. This is the most popular thing here, one of the flavours is like drinking nutella with a hint of alcohol. The chocolate shop and factory sell everything chocolate related.

Lancaster winery: Located on the banks of the Swan River, Lancaster has some of the best Verdelho and offers free wine tastings daily and complimentary cheese tasting. The tastings are set in a beautiful outdoor tasting shed, you can buy wine by the glass or bottle to sit out in the vineyard and enjoy together with a selection of local gourmet cheeses.

Old Young’s: A gin and vodka distillery that brings tradition together with new techniques and a flair for the unusual (think cold-drip coffee, the pavlova-flavoured vodka and a f*ck COVID vodka. These hand-crafted high quality spirits are produced using some of the world’s best raw materials (barley malt, wheat, spring water, grapes and fruit). They run tastings every day from 11am-5pm for $5 per person. The full range of Old Young’s vodkas and gins and be sampled, both neat or paired with a dash of hand-picked mixer. 

Baileys Brewery: A family run brewery that aims to make an outing to their brewery a family friendly, easy and no frills affair. The big brewery hosts a state of the art playground that includes a flying fox, good food and local wines.

Rottnest Island: 19 km off the coast of Fremantle is an paradisiacal island that has long been the go to destination for Perth families on holidays. This care-free, off the grid island is a slice of heaven with quiet beaches, bays and bike trails to roam around on. Most of what is to do here is outdoors so it’s worth making sure you plan to head on a good day. Cycling, snorkeling, fishing and diving are popular activities on the island. Most people come for the day but there are a limited number of accommodation options on the island. The accommodation ranges from extremely expensive resort style hotels to campgrounds but it books out months in advance so if you plan to stay, book ahead. There are several restaurants on the island too but again, can be expensive and the selection isn’t huge so if you are camping overnight, bring some of your own supplies. The best way to explore Rotto is on two wheels so bring your own bike or hiring one there. You can also hire bikes from Fremantle too. Make sure to check out The Basin, which is the most popular spot for swimming, Pinky’s beach, the lighthouse and get a selfie with happiest animals- the quokka.

Getting there

There are three ferry companies running from Fremantle (the quickest and cheapest), from Perth city and from the Hillarys further north. The Rottnest Express runs ferries every two hours from Fremantle to Rottnest and return, they run one ferry to Rottnest and back to Perth daily. Departing Perth at 8.45 am and returning at 4pm. The ferry takes 2 hours from Perth. An adult day return is $109 from Perth and is $70.50 from Fremantle including island entrance. We booked through Travel Playground and received a discount for the return ferry from Fremantle including bike hire for the day for $98.

The other ferry company, Sealinks, only offers ferries from Fremantle all year round and from Perth between Nov- March once a day. A day return costs the same price as the Rottnest express including admission fee ($70.50 from Fremantle, $109.50 from Perth). You can bring your own bike for $15 but that doesn’t including hiring fee for the bike.

South West Coast

Famous for top shelf wineries , breweries, artisan food, white beaches and caves. The lush green farmland, forests and coast of this temperature region of WA is a welcomed change and stark contrast from the harsh and sunburnt area of much of the rest of the state. The distances between attractions is relatively short too which makes it a great region to visit if you are short on time. You can see a lot in just a few days here. 

Black diamond lake: Just two hours south of Perth, a beautiful green blue lake that changes colour with the sun is a perfect stop off for a swim and a picnic. This lake exploded in popularity with the boom of social media and began to become very crowded thanks to it’s insta worthiness on a sunny day. People often bring floats here and spend the day chilling on an inflatable flamingo. Free to visit and almost empty midweek. 

Bunbury

This little seaside village with a port and long stretches of beach is a famous stop off for travellers to see dolphins. The sunrises are beautiful from the Marlston Hill Lookout. 

Dolphin Discovery Centre: Around 60 bottlenose dolphins live year round in the bay, even more numerous during the summer. For the best chance of meeting the dolphins, head to the beach zone early outside of the discovery centre. This is free to meet the dolphins. There appearance isn’t guaranteed daily but they do tend to show up most days, even for a swim through. In the discovery centre is a lovely cafe and a aquarium/ rehabilitation centre for baby loggerhead turtles. The volunteers feed the baby tulles daily at 9.45 am. Admission is $18 for adults and $10 for children. 

Busselton 

A small city (not a city in the sense I would know a city) about 2 hours drive south of Perth, surrounded by blue waters and white sandy beaches. It is a great spot to stock up before you head on a road trip, it has the last Kmart and Aldi you will see for a while if heading south. 

Busselton Jetty: This famous jetty is the southern hemispheres longest jetty at 1841 m. It recently underwent a $27m refurbishment in 2011. It is beautiful for a walk along, admiring the sea birds and views of the white sandy beach and turquoise waters. Adult entry to the jetty is $4. You can get a train up and back along the jetty (adult/ child $13.50/ 8.50). The train stop at the underwater observatory where tour takes place 8m below. You can also explore the underworld around the jetty by doing a dive with Dive Busselton Jetty.

Cape Naturaliste

South west corner of Australia has so much to offer, beautiful secluded white beaches, pastel sunsets and clear waters. This area has some great breweries and restaurants and beautiful beach side walking trials to work up an thirst for the wineries nearby. 

Meelup Beach: This was the first beach we arrived at and the first place we encountered a park ranger after thinking it was ok to pull up at a beach car park and camp for the night. This is not ok and you will be lumped with a $100 fine per person. Thankfully our mate Bec was sound enough and let us of with a warning. The sunset was breathtaking, the sea turning silver and pink with the reflection of the pastel sky. 

Meelup Farmhouse definitely deserve a visit to for brunch, a picnic or just a coffee. The offer everythign from bottomless brunches to picnics on their cosy farm. Wander around the beautiful grounds and enjoy the rustic decor whilst sipping a coffee. 

Along the coast, easily reached by a walking track or a few minute drive are the gorgeous beaches of Bunker Bay and Eagle bay. 

Eagle bay brewery is a family owned and run restaurant, brewery and vineyard situated on a working farm. It is open from 11 am- 5 pm daily and perfect for a spot of lunch or drinks and some bites to soak up the beer with beautiful views of the Indian Ocean.

Thing to do:

1. Cape Naturaliste lighthouse boasts amazing views on a clear day, worth a visit during whale migration season. The lighthouse itself isn’t exactly breathtaking so it’s not a must visit. 

2. Ngligi caves: These 500,000 year old caves as definitely worth a visit (adult/child $22.50/12). Semi guided tours take place every 30 mins allow you to explore the caves at your own pace. The caves are truly unique and fascinating to see this underworld. 

3. Cape to cape track: a 135km track stretches from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin, passing through the sand and forest of Leeuwin- Naturaliste National Park with ocean views. You can do it over several days, most people take 5, or do it over several day trips. There are campsites to stop off along the way. 

4. Injidup natural spa: A natural rock pool protected from the pounding surf located along the cape to cape track. Beautiful for a dip in the cool water and perch on the rocks enjoying the water bubble around you. 

Margaret River

Although the number of tourist probable outnumber the locals, Margaret River still has a small town, country feel to it. Once the surrounding vineyards shut up shop at 5pm, it is one of the only places around with some signs of life. It’s a good place to base yourself to explore the surrounding vineyards and breweries, although accommodation can be pricey and gets busy around Easter and Christmas time. 

Wineries:

Some of the best wineries in Australia are located here in Margaret River.

• Vasse Felix: The founding vineyard in Margaret River, producing top shelf wines and also very affordable wines from their classic range. A tasting here encompases their full range for $10 and you can add their two top shelf wines for an extra $5. The tasting fee is redeemable against any purchases so we came away with a bottle of great rose essentially for free. They have a high quality restaurant onsite too, bookings are required. The winery is set on beautiful grounds and the cellar resembles a castle.

• Juniper: In close proximity to Vasse Felix, this picturquese cellar door is adorned with bright flowers on the wall. The staff are very friendly and it’s a smaller vineyard. The tasting are generous and very good value at $5.
• Cullen wines:  Located in Wilyabrup region of MR, it is the only biodynamic and carbon positive winery in the region. The offer tasting from $15 up to $45 and have an onsite restaurant serving four course meals paired with their finest wines.

The area also has some great breweries too. These two are some of my favourites:

• Cheeky monkeys: A gorgeous bright brewery with beautiful garden and lake views, al fresco dining and a great cellar door offering wine tasting for $5 on site. The food is cheap and cheerful, tasty platters and great tasting paddles for $20 for all taste buds. From beer lovers to people who hate beer, the lightweight paddle serves seltzer, ginger beer and cider.

• Black Brewery Co. Not only do they have a brewery producing some of Margaret Rivers finest beers, but they have a distillery producing gins and other spirits and a great restaurant serving food daily from 12-4. You can drop in for a beer, gin or wine tasting to sample their full craft beer range, Dune Distilling Co spirits and Ground to Cloud wines crafted with grapes from their own vines.
• Margaret River Chocolate factory. Truffles, chocolate in kilo bags, rocky road and everything you could imagine chocolate related. Definitely go to if you are a chocolate fan.

Turquoise coast

Famous for sand dunes, long stretches of beaches and turquoise water, protected marine reserves which provide safe breeding grounds for sea lions, national parks with strange geological formations and wild flower blooms. 

Yanchep National Park: Situated about an hours drive north of Perth, this lovely National Park has a few walks ranging from short and easy 1.5 km loops to longer and more strenuous 4km loops. Near the visitor centre is a chocolate shop which was sadly closed during our visit (who closes a chocolate shop over Easter?!), a restaurant and plenty of kangaroos roaming around and koalas munching in the trees. They have campgrounds too for those looking to stay longer. 

Lancelin– A little ramshackle fishing village about 2 hours north of Perth, Lancelin isn’t the prettiest and wouldn’t require anymore than a few hours stop off, unless you are a kite or windsurfer. Afternoon offshore winds make it heaven for wind worshipers. The towering sand dunes of Lancelin are perfect for careering down on a board. You can rent sand boards from the Let’s Have A Chat general store ($10 for 2 hours) and snorkelling equipment for $25 for a half day. 

Nambung National Park– This national park is the home to the famous Pinnacles Desert. The fast plain resembles something for outer space with tall, alien like limestone columns arising from the desert floor. The geological phenomenon are the result of compact seashells that covered the land and over the course of millions of years, have eroded and the remnants are the Pinnacle rocks, some as tall as 3.5m.

The visitor centre is open from 9.30-4.30 but you can enter the park at any time. There is a scenic one way driving loop and a short 1.5 km loop to complete on foot. Seeing the Pinnacles Desert at sunrise or sunset is the best time to visit. You only need to allocate about an hour to the National Park, and that includes plenty of photos from the viewing platform. 

Jurien Bay

Big enough to have a few cafes, a restaurant, a supermarket and a pub, Jurien Bay won’t take too long to complete but this quiet fishing village has plenty of reason to visit and spend at least a night or two. 

Things to do:

• Watch sunset from the jetty. Every evening tourist and locals flock to the jetty with a drink or their fishing rods to see if they can catch anything and to watch the sun go down. 

• Have a beach day. A beautiful long and mostly deserted beach is safe for swimming, great for snorkelling and quiet for a sunny snooze. 

• Swim with sea lions. Jurien Bay is home to healthy population of Australian sea lions who reside on a few tiny islands off the coast. Jurien Bay Swim with Sea Lions (link) take you near the island, provide you with wetsuits and snorkelling equipment, hot drinks and a snack after. They stress the importance of maintaining our distance from the home fo the sea lions and how to interact with them in a way that is non treating. The sea lions are the labradors of the sea and are very playful. The sea lions are not shy at all and seemed unbothered and some excited, by new friends to play with. 

• Take a jump with Skydive Jurien Bay. Known as the best beach sky dive in the world, the views from the plane and whilst free falling from 14,000 ft lived up to the hype. The team at Skydive Jurien Bay are very friendly and professional and put our nerves at ease. We had amazing weather for it- crystal clear ocean below with not a cloud in the sky. The video is an extra cost but the end product was excellent, worth getting to remember the experience. We booked through Travel Playground for a discounted price ($449 to $419 weekend price) It is slightly cheaper to go midweek so if you can organise your trip to do the jump between Mon-Thu it is $50 cheaper. 

Coral coast

Geraldton

Capital of the midwest, Geraldton is the largest town between Perth and Darwin. It doesn’t have a huge amount of offer but is a good place to restock in the Coles, Kmart and Wollies as you won’t be seeing any of these for a while! It has a pretty beach and is the gateway to the Abrolhos Islands. 

Houtman abrolhos islands are an archipelago of 122 islands and coral reefs 60 km off the coast of Geraldton and are home to an abundance of wildlife and endemic flora.The surrounding reefs are incredible places to dive and snorkel. Expect to see green tulles, sea lions, carpet pythons and wallaby’s on and around these islands. You can visit these islands as a diver on a live aboard multi-way trip or take a scenic flight/ island landing. Live aboard start from $1350 for two days and a scenic flight and island landing will set you back about $300. If you have the budget to visit, it’s a unique and special place.

Kalbarri

Beautiful white sand beaches, limestone cliffs meeting the Indian Ocean, incredible sunsets, hikes through gorgeous gores with incredible views- Kalbarri has it all. Perfect for exercise and nature enthuses with hiking, abseiling, swimming, surfing , horse riding and canoeing both in town and in Kalbarri National Park. Kalbarri is a sleepy seaside village that’s main draw is access to the National Park.

Things to do:

• Chinamans Beach: Where the Murchison River meets the sea, the beach’s sheltered and calm waters offer a perfect spot for swimming, SUPPIng and kayaking. 

• Horse riding at Big River Ranch. Big River Ranch is a beautiful farm with horses, campsite and farmhouse accommodation. They have a well equipped camp kitchen, power hook up and water, a pool and paddocks surrounding the living area and main house with horses roaming. They run horse riding sessions in the morning and in the evening. This was one of my favourite campsites and it was one of the most reasonable ones we stayed at ($35 per night with water and power). 

• Kalbarri National Park. There are two very different faces to the park: coastal cliffs meet the Indian Ocean and are dotted with great look outs with walking trails connecting them and the inland hot, red, steep gorges with the Murchison River snaking below. 

1. Along the coast the string of lookouts are all only a short walk from the car parks but if you have the energy, take the Bigurda trial (8 km one way) along the clifftops between Nature Bridge and Eagle Gorge. Some of the best lookout points are Pot Alley, Red Bluff, Mushroom Rock, Island Rock and Eagle Gorge. Blue Holes is a lovely beach to snorkel. Blue Holes is a fish habitat protection area and part of a limestone reef. Red Bluff is one of the best places to catch sunset, they are truly stunning along here. 

2. The river gorges in east of Kalbarri where the heat gets more intense and the flies are unrelenting. Don’t even think of going near the east part of the park without a fly net or you’ll spend your time batting them away, breathing them up your nose or ingesting them. For me this is the most magnificent part of the park. 

• The first attraction in the east section is a 30 km drive east of the town. Two Skywalks and a cafe provide panoramic views of the west loop and of the Murchison River weaving below. The sky walks are wheelchair friendly and accessible to all. 

• Loop trial (8km return) and Natures Window. Natures window is the park’s most iconic and photogenic attraction where a natural rock formation frames the sunrise a few minutes after sunrise for just a few moments and you catch the sun’s rays beaming through. It also frames the Murchison river perfectly. A short and easy 1km return walk from the car park will bring you here, it’s also the start of the challenging loop trail. This strenuous but beautiful trial depends into the gorge and requires a decent level of fitness, plenty of water and a fly net. The trail is closed after 7am due to the danger of the heat. Temperatures can be 10 degrees hotter down in the gorge and there is little to no shade. The walk takes about 3 hours but they advise to give yourself up to 5 hours to complete. Get to Natures Window before sunrise and then take off on the loop trial just before 7 am. 

The second set of sights are another 24km east of Kalbarri, if heading on north you will pass the turn off for them. Not far from the road, you will come to Ross Graham Lookout, which provides amazing views of the gorge and access to the river (700m walk return). The second gorge lookout is Hawk’s Head (200m return walk from car park). 

If you are heading north, make sure you fill up before leaving Kalbarri as once you leave, there are no fuel stops for 2 hours. We made the mistake of thinking it would be fine on half a tank and we hit the reserve with 60km to go to the next petrol station. I was thinking how long would we last with minimal water in 34 degree heat in the middle of the outback, I gave us 4 hours.

After Kalbarri, the drives start to get very long, very boring with a lot of nothing to look at. Next stop after Kalbarri was Shark Bay (6 hour drive). 

Shark Bay

This UNSEO world heritage site spans from Kalbarri to Carnarvon with 1500 km of sparkling coastline, turquoise lagoons, red desert, baron islands, remote  national parks, an array of marine life and shell covered beaches. It is the most westerly point of Australia’s mainland and one of WA’s most biodiverse areas. Prepare to see turtles, sharks, dolphins, sting rays, humpback whales and the extremely rare dugongs (also known as sea cows). Dugongs are found here due to the lush beds of seagrass, their only source of food. There is so much to see and do in Shark bay, and one more different from the next. Is is also home the stromatolites of Hamelin Pool, the first signs of life on earth. 

Denham

The main town in this area in Denham, a quiet, laid back fishing village with a beautiful white sandy beachfront. Is it home to the Shark Bay Hotel, Australia’s most westerly pub. Not a bad spot to perch outside with a cold beer and watch the sunset. There are a few restaurants, cafes, a petrol station, two caravan parks and an IGA here. It is a great base to explore Dirk Hartog Island, the surrounding Shark Bay marine park, Francois Peron National Park and is a 25 min drive to Monkey Mia. 

Things to do:

• Francois Peron NP: spanning from Denham to the tip of the remainder of the peninsula, is a spectacular area of red sand dunes, steep cliffs, impossibly blue ocean and salty lagoons. A day trip or overnight trip to Francois Peron is off the beaten track and requires some forward planning, but totally worth it. It’s a breathtaking place to observe marine life from the lookouts, walking along white sandy beaches and see where the desert meets the sea but it’s off limits unless you have a high clearance 4WD. From Skipjack point you can see dolphins, sharks, stingrays and turtles.

You can make it as far as the Peron Heritage precinct, which was a sheep station in the 1950s. It has a outdoor hot tub (40 degrees!) to chill out in and wash off the red dirt after a day exploring the National Park.

There are a few companies running tours Francois Peron National Park ($205) but it was hard to find a company doing a full day tour and heading up to the furthest tip of the peninsula- Cape Peron. 

If you don’t have a 4WD, it’s extremely easy to do a self guided tour and hire one. We rented a 4WD from Wicked Campers ($300 with $500 security deposit) with no experiencing driving in soft sand tracks and off road and managed fine. The hire is for 24 period and come with a roof tent. There are plenty of designated camping grounds in the park with BBQ and toilets so you have the option of spending the night and having it back the next morning. $300 per day seems expensive but compared to the price of the tours and if you have a few people to split between, it is definitely the most cost effective and best way to explore the Francois Peron. 

Wicked Campers are located in the industrial estate a few mins drive from Denham town centre. They operate out of a mechanics garage. No pre booking is required, we rocked up to the garage that morning and called Wicked Campers to book. 

There are no bins, mobile phone service, water, fuel or places to buy food in the National Park so make sure you carry plenty of water, food and have a full tank of fuel. There are some bush toilets in the park. Take all your rubbish with you. Don’t leave any thing behind, only footprints. 

At the entrance to track where a high clearance 4WD is required, there is a pressure gauge and pump. 

It is really important to let you tyres down to 20 psi or less, the lower you go the more likely you are not to need help. With the heat the pressure will rise too so safest to drop the pressure to 15 psi. The rangers will not thank you for ruining the tracks or having to come and help you out after spinning your wheels and burying yourself in the sand. 

Prepare to be bounced along the 45 km sand track from the precinct up to Cape Peron. 

Top places in Francois Peron:

• Cape Peron: Most northern point of the peninsula with steep red cliffs and dolphin population. 

• Skip jack point: Viewing platform with dolphins, stingray and whales swimming below. 

A 1.5km one way track along the cliff tops links Cape Peron to Skipjack point. The views are exquisite but the track is red hot (literally, the sand gets so hot). The is no reprieve from the flies or the heat along here so unless you come between Jun-Aug, I would recommend driving around. If you do opt to walk it, you might see some thorny devils if it’s early in the day. These guys don’t like to be out in the peak of the heat. 

The Gregories: white sandy beaches, transparent water which is good for snorkelling with direct access to the reef. 

• Dirk Hartog island. This slim, long and barren island running parallel to the Peron peninsula, was first discovered in 1616 by a Dutch man whom the island is named after. WA’s largest island is now a National Park that has been restored to its natural state thanks to The Eden Project, which was started with the aim of restoring the island to it’s 1616 spender. The Eden project is an ecosystem regeneration program that has eradicated feral animals such as goats, cats and sheep and slowly reintroduced native species such as the boodie and banded hare wallabies. 

The island has no roads on it, just sandy dirt tracks that require 4WD access to navigate. A maximum of only 20 4WD are allowed on the island at any one time so booking are essential. A barge goes from either Steep Point or from Denham Jetty to Cape Ransonnet, about 20km north of the homestead camping grounds. Shark Bay 4WD do full and half day tours from Denham using their own boat and vehicles on the island. 

The half day tours run from 8am-1pm and include a visit to a viewing point of Steep Point (mainland Australia’s most westerly point), a gorgeous bay filled with turtles and sharks that you can see from the beach, the sparse, sheer cliffs that resemble something you would expect to see on Mars, a tour of the old sheep station and then finished off by coffee, fresh scones with cream and jam and cake overlooking the astonishingly blue beach. 

There is one cafe/bar/restaurant- Cafe Inscription, on the island where you can get food, drinks and coffees over looking the pristine beach. I was shocked they even had almond milk and decent value aperol spritz. 

There is one family who live full time on the island who run the cafe and also run the homestead where basic accommodation is available from $26.50 a night with use of camp kitchen, gas BBQ, fire pit, fresh showers and toilets. Book online well in advance as places are limited. If you are planning on camping or staying overnight, bring plenty of food and water as it is limited to what you can get in Cafe Inscription. 

• Little lagoon: An impossibly blue lagoon a few minute drive from Denham. Perfect for a swim, a picnic or sunning yourself on the sand. You can walk around the perimeter of the lake by getting just your feet wet. 

• Monkey Mia: Watching the wild dolphins gather on the beach every morning is the highlight of every visitors trip. There isn’t anything else to Monkey Mia except a beach and a resort. The Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort is the only option for accommodation here. Book online before you arrive as it’s the only accommodation in the area, it booked up and free camping is not permitted. It caters for all types with campsites to luxury beachside villas. Powered campsites with water hook up, lovely showers and immaculate kitchen are $60 for 2 adults per night. The resort has a great bar, Monkey Bar, with a stunning beach side location with a good happy hour from 5-6 pm, food and entertainment most evenings. 

• Monkey Mia Marine Reserve: This is the only place in the world where wild dolphins come every morning without fail. Wild dolphins swim in early each day for a snack. Access to the beach is restricted during feeding times. A few lucky spectators get chosen to hand feed two of the dolphins who are the only dolphins who are allowed to be fed. The snack they receive is less than 2% of their daily food requirements as to not upset their hunting habits. Feeding starts at 7.45am every day up until 12pm. Get there early (7am to get your tickets and for the best chance of a clear view of the dolphins. Tickets are an additional cost (adult/child $13/5) to the national park fees to enter Monkey Mia. 

• Shark bay discovery centre. The visitor centre has a free gallery of stunning aerial photos of the UNESO World Hertitage area and a museum showcasing information about the areas animal life, marine life, aboriginal culture and ecosystems ($13 entry). It is also one of the few places with free wifi in Denham. 

• Shell beach. Along Shark Bay road is the most unique beach I’ve visited. Instead of sand, the beach is made up of tiny white shells. The sea is so clear and is twice as salty as most sea water so you will float easier. 

• Hamelin pool: Along Shark Bay road shortly after the turn off for the peninsula, lies Hamelin pool, a marine reserve with the world’s best and most diverse colony of stromatolites. Also referred to as ‘living fossils’, stromatolites are living representatives of life over 3500 million years ago when there was no other complex life on Earth. There is a 200m boardwalk to provide great views of the stromatolites, microbialites and microbial mats. I believe the boardwalk was destroyed in the recent cyclone though. I hope they are able to repair it soon.

• Eagle Bluff lookout: On the way into Shark Bay, don’t miss making a stop off at this incredible look out. From here we spotted stingrays, turtles and so many sharks. 

Carnarvon

About 4 and a half hours north and Geraldton and 2.5 hours south of Coral Bay, Carnarvon make a good place to stop off and refuel, stock up in Woolies and stretch your legs. It is known as the fruit bowl of Western Australia as it produces over 70% of the states fruit and vegetables. It makes a good base to explore the Ningaloo Reef, Shark Bay World Heritage area or head inland from and see the world’s largest rock, Mount Augustus,standing 2.5 times bigger than Ayers Rock. It is located within Mount Augustus National Park, a lush outback paradise with swimming holes, ancient rock art, a small but buzzing tourist park. The National Park is a 4 hour drive inland from Carnarvon. The city itself doesn’t have much to offer so I wouldn’t spend much or anytime here bar to refuel and visit the Space and Technology museum. But its proximity to some of the jewels of Western Australia makes it a good place to base your trip around.

Space and Technology museum. The Carnarvon Space and Technology Museum celebrates the history of the role Carnarvon played in the manned space program and in the Australian satellite communications industry. It was used in 1966 for the first television broadcast from Australia to the BBC in London.

Coral Bay

A tiny chilled out, seaside village an hour and a half south of Exmouth that consists of just one street and a sweeping sandy beach at the end, it’s small enough to be covered in an afternoon. Coral Bay is the perfect gateway to the Ningaloo reef with the coral reef just off the town beach. It’s a perfect base to access the outer reef too on day trips or stick around the tiny village and explore the coral bombies. 

Things to do:

• Snorkel at Bill’s Bay. Bill’s Bay is the perfectly located town beach at the end of the town with direct access to the coral reef. Snorkelling equipment can be hired on the beach if you don’t already have your own ($15). Or for the same price you can purchase a mask and snorkel for $25 from the minimart. 

• Quad bike tour: A number of self drive ATV adventure tours depart Coral Bay exploring beaches, bushtracks, pristine bays, dunes, cliff lines, abundant wildlife and picture perfect sunsets. You may be lucky enough to see turtles feeding, snorkel pristine bays amongst turtles and experience the raw beauty of the unique coastline in the two seater quad bike. The tours offered are turtle adventure trek, sunset trek and a combination of both. They last either 2 or 2.5 hours and start at $130 for a single rider and $195 for two people sharing one quad.

• Swim with whale sharks. The Ningaloo reef is one of the few places on earth you can swim with whale sharks in the wild, that aren’t baited and that the well fare of the whale sharks are at the core of the companies values. This can be organised from Coral Bay or Exmouth. I have heard it is better from Exmouth and that is where I did it. 

• Swim with manta rays: Coral bay is one of the few places in the world you will find manta rays all year round. A full day tour including transport, snorkelling equipment, morning tea, lunch and water starts from $220 with Coral Bay Eco Tours.

• Paddle board in Bills Bay. The bay is crystal clear and flat, making it a perfect location to cruise on a stand up paddle board. SUPs can be rented from the kiosk at the beach ($25 per hour) or rent a glass bottom kayak for $30 per hour. 

Where to eat:

• Bills on the Ningaloo reef: The courtyard dinning is a good spot for big groups to enjoy some Aussie classics. Portions are decent, the place to go if you’re looking for a good feed. They have daily specials on the board and happy hour from 5-6pm everyday. 

• Fins cafe. Lovely, super casual cafe with outdoor dining serving all day breakfast, salads, sandwiches and is one of the few places with decent wifi. Open from 8am-9.30 pm they serve interesting array of seafood at dinner time.  

Where to stay:

There are two campsites, a backpackers and a hotel. The People’s Park is the only campsite with fresh water in coral bay. 

Exmouth 

Roads lined with palm trees, fabulous beaches either side of the peninsula and close to National Parks and an abundance in marine life, there is not shortage of reasons to visit. Famous for its proximity to the Ningaloo reef, it population soars during the whale shark season (Apr- Jul) and humpback whale migration. Aside from swimming with whale sharks, Exmouth offers excellent diving and bush walking opportunities in the close by Cape Range National Park, dotted with incredible beaches and impressive gorges.

Things to do:

• Swim with whale sharks. Every year from Apr-Aug whale sharks visit the Ningaloo Reef. It is one of the only places in the world that shark sightings in the wild, without any baiting, are guaranteed. We went with Ningaloo blue Dive and had a fantastic day. The team was great and our safety and the welfare of the sharks are their highest priorities. It is a full day tour including a morning and afternoon snorkel, several swims with the whale sharks as they are sighted, morning tea and light breakfast, snacks, a buffet lunch, fresh fruit and a celebratory glass of champagne after. Ningaloo Blue Dive provide amazing photos of the day included in the price and also have a no sighting return again guarantee. So if you don’t get to swim with the whale sharks, you can come again for free. The price per adult is $425 and a child is $325. They provide you with wetsuits and snorkelling equipment too. We booked our tour through Travel Playground and got a discount so we paid $389. Neil runs a great service so I would definitely recommend booking through him.

• Swim with humpback whales. Ningaloo Blue Dive also run humpback whale tours from August-end of Oct when the whales are migrating. The tour is a full day tour, similar to the whale shark experience. Price for this tour is $400. Ningaloo Blue Dive are a certified Ecotourism Business, they aim to raise awareness about the Ningaloo reef in a sustainable manner and conserve the beautiful marine life.

• Dive at the navy pier. The world famous Exmouth Navy Pier is one of the top ten dive sites in Australia and one of the top shore dives in the world. It is still an active Navy base so they are very strict on having ID on you, it is not accessible to the public and Dive Ningaloo are the only dive school with access to this location. The dives here are completely dependant on the tides and must be entered on slack tide only. Therefore either a single or double dives are possible but it depends on the tides. The restricted access and no fishing permitted means that the marine life here is so diverse and abundant. A single dive costs $150 ($140 of you book through Travel Playground) and then a entrance fee of $50 is required to enter the navy base.

• Explore Cape Range National Park: Amazing hikes through rocky gorges of the rugged Cape Range National Park . There is a small campsite here too right beside the colourful Ningaloo reef. The spectacular gorges are carved by the rivers that adjoin the pristine coastline. There are a few must see places to stop off along the way to the end of the Cape Range National Park.
  • Yardie Creek: a river that flows between sheer cliffs where the river meets the mouth of the Ningaloo reef. Guided boat tours are available daily at 11am and 12.30pm. The cruises are 1 hour long and cost $40 per adult. There is a 2km return hike to the top of the gorge for a view of the spectacular of the rugged landscape.

• Turquoise bay: famous for its crystal clear waters, turquoise seas and white sandy beaches.

• Oyster stacks. These are five isolated islets that protrude from the reef, which are literally covered with oysters. It’s one of the best places I’ve been snorkelling from a beach. The reef is right off the beach so you don’t need to swim far. It should only be snorkelled during a high tide when there is sufficient water over the reef.

• Thomas Carter lookout– At 311m above sea level, this lookout is one of the highest points in Cape Range National Park, with views of the ocean, both west and east over the gulf. The lookout is the start and end of the Badjirrijirra Trail, a moderately difficult 7 km loop trail with undulating terrain traversing the top of Cape Range. It gets extremely hot on the trail so go early, especially in the summer months.

• Watch sunset or sunrise at the lighthouse. The lighthouse is one of the few places in exmouth you can see both the sunrise and sunset. Watch the sun sink down into the Indian ocean and turn the sky a shade of cotton candy.

• Pebble beach– A beautiful stone beach about 15 min dive outside Exmouth town. As we drove into Exmouth, we saw the sun going down and pulled in at the nearest turn to get out and marvel at the pastel sunset. The water had turned a silvery pink colour and we were the only ones around. The sunrises on this side too.

Where to stay:

RAC Exmouth is right opposite the visitor centre. It has good facilities, a lovely pool, spotless bathrooms and camp kitchen. 

Where to eat:

• Froth: a micro- brewery with an award-winning family friendly restaurant and live music venue. Froth is open daily from 11am until late.

• Whale Bone Brewery: Owned and operated by two local families with a love of craft beer who wanted to bring beer back to what it should be; a great, refreshing drink enjoyed with friends and family in a simple, no fuss environment under the stars. The outdoor seating is perfect for big groups and enjoying the live entertainment. The pizzas here are great and really good value. Open daily from 12-10 pm.

• Society Social: A quaint, rustic cafe and sustainable living clothing and lifestyle shop serving vegan and veggie food. Free wifi, amazing menu and a comfy place to chill out and work, chat and cool down in the AC.

Port Hedland 

The biggest town between Geraldton and Broome, PH is a good place to stop to recharge, refuel and restock the supplies. There isn’t a heap to see in Port Hedland but it makes a nicer stop off for a night or just a few hours. If you are on your way to Broome, this is your last chance at good food, real coffee and a dip in the sea for about 7 hours. It has a decent outdoor 50m pool to cool off in or get some exercise without melting.

Port Hedland is home to the world’s largest deep-water port, vast cargo ships and furnaces and gleaming white mountains of salt.

Staircase to the moon: Goode St, near Pretty Pool, is one of the places to observe the staircase to the moon, from Mar- Oct during full moon nights, the water caught in sand ripples reflects the moonlight, creating the illusion of steps to the moon. 

Observe turtle hatching on the beach. Port Hedland’s Cemetery Beach is renowned for turtle nesting. One of the highlights of Port Hedland is the local environmental group Care for Hedland Association, who are responsible for the nationally recognised Turtle Monitoring Program. The program provides training to environmental studies students as well as giving locals and visitors the rare opportunity to watch the laying and hatching of eggs during the nesting season (October to March).

Broome 

A city like no other that is the western gateway to the Kimberley wilderness, the pearling capital of Australia, home to the famous 22 km long Cable Beach and its spectacular sunsets and the natural phenomenon of the Staircase to the Moon. It is an enduring 22 hour drive from Perth or a quick 2 and a half hour flight, this tropical oasis is located on a peninsula jutting into the Indian Ocean. The juxtaposing colours of the turquoise sea and red dirt at Gantheaume Point. Broome is a multicultural melting pot thanks to its abundant supply of cultured pearls which drew Japanese, Filipino and Malay pearl divers in the 1800s seeking their fortune.

Things to do:

• Camel ride along Cable Beach at sunset. This is a beautiful sight, seeing the crimson sun sink into the Indian Ocean with the silhouettes of a train of camels in the forefront. There are three companies who offer sunset rides ($90/70 for adult/child, maximum weight per person sharing a camel is 90 kg each. If the combined weight of two people is >180 kg, there is an addition fee for a camel each). We went with Sundowner Camels and can recommend them. The price includes a drink of cold beer, wine or water. 

• Sun pictures outdoor picture gardens. This is the world’s oldest operating picture garden showing new release films, dating back to 1916. Sinking into the canvas chairs, watching a movie and munching on popcorn under the stars is a must do in Broome ($18.50/ adult/ child). Short tours (15 min) of the old picture garden run daily during the dry. 

• Jetty to jetty walk. The 3.4km one-way Jetty to Jetty trail shows Broome’s rich cultural history. It’s a very easy and flat walk on mostly paved paths that run in a meandering way to take in important sites between Streeters’s Jetty and the old Jetty. The walk finished at town beach.

• Cable beach. This beach is an icon of WA, especially during sunset. I had been warned about the beauty of sunsets here, they lived up to the expectation and more. The sunsets here are some of the best I’ve seen, and no two are the same. Locals flock to the beach in their 4WD with drinks to watch sunset. Swimming here during the wet is not recommended due to stingers. 

• See dinosaur footsteps at Gantheaume Point. Gantheaume Point is made up of a stretch of white sandy beach and red rock contrasting with the vibrant turquoise of the Indian Ocean. A five minute drive outside of the town, are the footprints of long-extinct dinosaurs, preserved in the reef rock for over 125 million years. It is one of the best paleontological sites in the world. Check the tides before going as the footprints are only visible in low tide.

• Matso’s brewery. Visit to get reprieve from the daytime heat or come for evening drinks in the beer garden with a cocktail hut and Japanese food truck. The brewery serves lunch and dinner in the restaurant and have more casual dining options in the beer garden under the fairy lights. There are tasting paddles ($20 for 5 tasters) to suit all taste buds, cocktails and wine. Their mango beer and chilli ginger beer are a winner. 

Peruse the boutiques in Chinatown. Broome’s main shopping district is in Chinatown. It has a lot of jewelry shops and souvenirs shops but also some lovely clothing and lifestyle boutiques.

Shop for pearls. You can witness first-hand how Broome pearls are cultured on a cruise to a local pearl farm or learn the history of the pearl industry from local suppliers. Pick-up a memento of your trip in the dazzling pearl showrooms of Chinatown, but beware the price of Broome pearls is about four or five times that of fresh water pearls.

Karijini National Park. 

Set in the heart of Western Australia’s Pilbara region, Karijini National Park is the state’s second largest national park with a two billion year history. Ancient geological formations make up the National Park, with red layered cliffs that line the spectacular gorges, picturesque gorges, refreshing waterfalls and the challenging mountain hikes. The cascading waterfalls and ferns provide a soothing reprieve from the intense heat of the outback. There is an incredible network of walking trails, ranging from easy to challenging, that meander through some of Australia’s most epic scenery.

There are no shops, no fresh water except at the Karijini visitor centre, no rubbish bins and no fuel in the National Park so ensure you have enough fuel, water and food supplies for your stay. The unsealed roads are horrendous to drive on so two spare tyres are a must.

Sights to see:

• Hamersley Gorge. One of the most remote gorges located in the north west corner of the national park. From the carpark it is a 400 m walk down steps to the gorge floor. The layers of rock in folded bands of colour create the walls of the gorge. There is a lower gorge pool that is easy to reach from the car park and two further pools which require climbing up rocks to reach the pools. The furthest pool is a beautiful plunge pool carved into ancient rock and wood.

• Dales gorge :Three major highlights of Karijini National Park lie at Dales Gorge. Enjoy a swim at Fortescue Falls, Fern Pool or set off on a hike on a 2 hour return trail to Circular Pool. You can choose to visit these attractions separately, or complete a full loop following the marked walk trails.

• Fortescue Falls: the only spring-fed waterfall in Karijini National Park, the water cascades down the gently sloped rocks into a pool at the base of Dales Gorge. The falls are a 150 m walk down from the car park via a set of stairs with a handrail. You can return to the carpark via the same path, or cross the watercourse (on stepping stones) to join the Dales Gorge walk.

• Gorge Rim trail: The Gorge Rim walk is the easiest way to experience the Dales Gorge area, tracing a path from Fortescue Falls to Circular Falls and back again. The walk features short steep sections and occasional steps and is a 2 kilometre return walk.

• Fern Pool: From the base of the staircase to the Fortescue Falls, a short signposted track leads upstream to Fern Pool. It is one of the most beautiful spots in the park. Make sure you swim to the far side of the pool and climb up to sit behind the waterfall.

• Circular Pool : At the eastern end of Dales Gorge, the Circular Pool lookout can be easily accessed from the Dales day use area carpark. A short walk trail from the car park leads to the lookout, with spectacular views into the gorge and the large amphitheatre of Circular Pool, lined with ferns and trees.

• Mount Bruce: Mt Bruce, or Punurrunha, is the Western Australia’s second highest mountain. The hike to the summit takes about 3 hours return boasting scenic views along the way. The walk is 9km return and entails clambering over rocks and undulating ground.

• Joffre Falls: a magnificent natural amphitheatre with a curved seasonal waterfall. The views across the gorge can be seen from a lookout platform before the trail descends into the gorge for a more challenging hike over roughed rocks to reach the pool downstream from the waterfall. The trail is 1.5 km.

• Hancock gorge and kermit pool: The walk commences with scaling down a ladder, after this you walk deep into the gorge, through narrow chambers and past beautiful rock pools. Albeit short, this is one of the most exciting trail in the park leading you through a narrow canyon. Part of this trail requires wading through water to waist height or scaling the cliff face to the right. The final part of the trail to Hancock gorge can be slippy and is very narrow.

• Weano Gorge and Handrail pool: A short walk into Weano Gorge brings you to Handrail Pool, which is great for swimming and provides a great introduction to Karijini National Park. Hikers can choose to enter Weano Gorge in two places, with a longer walk through Upper Weano Gorge starting at the carpark, and a shorter walk through Lower Weano Gorge starting from the trail towards Oxer lookout. The Weano Gorge trails are difficult requiring walking through water and climbing over rocks. The final part of the trail to Handrail Pool is Class 5, including traveling over stepping stones and using the handrail to assist the climb into the stunning Handrail Pool.

• Oxer Lookout: From here enjoy amazing panoramic views of four gorges: Joffre Gorge, Weano Gorge, Red Gorge and Hancock Gorge. It is a short 15-minute walk to get to the Oxer Lookout from the Weano Gorge car park.

Where to stay and eat:

Karijini Eco Lodge: The only accommodation in the national park, an environmentally friendly retreat and campground nestled at Joffre Gorge. The award winning Karijini Eco Retreat offers comfortable glamping accommodation and dinner and breakfast in their onsite restaurant. They have unpowered sites, shower and washing facilities and glamping tents. The eco lodge books out months in advance so be sure to book ahead.

Dales campground: a large campground in the national park that accommodates campers in several loops, each with picnic tables, gas barbeques and bush toilets. The sites are unpowered however there are generator sites. Showers and potable water are located at the Karijini Visitor Centre.

Tom Price Tourist Park: They have options from unpowered sites to dorm beds and self contained chalets sleeping up to 6 people. Tom Price is about an 45 minute drive to the National Park on a mixture of sealed and unsealed roads, depending on what part of the park you are going to. I would definitely recommend staying in the park if possible.